Sienna Brick Road

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This series of articles is based on my experiences training with an electronic collar.  

This article is about getting your dog’s attention and how to perfect the attention exercise under distraction.

In Part 2 of this series I covered how I prepared the dog, fit the collar and how I determined the correct intensity to use for that particular dog.  I also talked briefly on the theory behind the e-collar training method and I will go in to more detail on this as I progress.

I started teaching my dog to look at me when he was a pup.  If he would look at my face when I said “look” he got rewarded with a piece of hot dog or a toy.  This was in part, preparation for the heel with attention exercise that we would be doing later on at trial.  It is also a useful command to teach for times I want the dog focused only on me.  For instance when he is being examined by the vet or  when the lady in the parking lot just let her little barking dogs out off leash to become potential prey objects to my dog.  When I am in public I feel responsible for my dog’s behavior and there are times I need him to focus on me. 

In the beginning I trained for sport, either for CKC Obedience or later for Schutzhund. (I am not counting the endless hours I spent as a child teaching tricks to the family dog.)  Now I still enjoy sport but train mostly for myself and my dog or to help others manage and enjoy their own dogs.  The theory and methods I use are the same but my end goal is no longer a title or ribbon.  I try to train beyond the requirements of trial to use in real life.  With that attitude, when my dog is reliable in my eyes, he should be able to perform to high standards in any situation whether it is a CKC ring, a Schutzhund field or a busy downtown sidewalk.  The most important being real life where you often do not get a do-over.

Getting Attention

I want my dogs to think that there is nothing better, more fun, more rewarding or more exciting then being around me.  Fortunately its not that big of a stretch for most dogs to really want to be around the handler.  No wonder we love them so much!  I am really fun to do stuff with in the dog’s eyes, but it is because I work at it.  I am very consistent in my training which includes my mood.  One of the reasons I love training is because I can leave my problems and negativity somewhere else and hit the training field for an hour and just have fun with my dog. I always have toys, sometimes food, and a positive happy and playful attitude.  I mix the training and corrections with bouts of excited play and then long leisurely walks.  My dog knows his name and when I call his name it does not necessarily mean I want him to come to me.  It is more of a heads up thing.  When I say his name, he must look for me.  This might mean he lifts his head and stops sniffing that dead stump he found and looks in my direction waiting for a command.  It might mean, look I have your toy, or its time to go.  So when I say his name he must look to me for further instruction.  When I say “here” it means you must come to me immediately.  So with that in mind, my dog was wearing the e-collar, I had it set to the intensity we chose the day before and he was also wearing his training collar and long line.  I took him to the field where we train and play ball.  I had two hoses in my back pocket for toys as well as a tug on a rope that I can throw or play tug of war with.  I think that’s his favorite game. If I were to start playing with him I would no doubt have his full attention, but I want to be sure that no matter what he is doing he will turn his attention to me when he hears my name.

Preparing for the Exercise

To prepare for this exercise he had been wearing his collar for about 45 minutes, we had done some on- leash heeling with his regular training collar and reviewed some of the exercises he already knows and performs fairly well. I purposely took him to an area that I know would distract him.  There were cats in our barn and he is VERY interested in chasing those cats.  Smelling them and hearing them move around in the building is distracting.  I put him in a sit-stay position and moved about ten feet in front of him.  I could see him air scenting and was turning his head to the area the cats were. I hit the continuous stim and said his name almost simultaneously, he was more interested in the cats and it took about 3 seconds for him to turn his head and look at me. The second he looked at me I released the stim and waited for him to once again become distracted and did it again.  I did not correct him for looking away at this point.  I just waited till he stopped looking at me and returned his focus to the barn, then I pushed the continuous button and said his name, repeating the first time.  The fourth time he seemed to be wanting to look at the cat but was trying to focus his attention on me. His eyes stayed on me even though his ears were on the barn.  I made him look at me for about 20 seconds without looking away and released him verbally and immediately ran backwards while pulling the hose out of my back pocket and held it for him to take a bite.  This is a huge reward for him and he took the bite and we wrestled a bit before I put him in a sit stay and repeated the process.  

Success

It did not take long using the e-collar for him to figure out that he could turn it off if he responded very fast.  That is why the timing of saying his name and the stim is so important. Gradually I changed slightly in my timing but this was when he was getting consistant under increasing distraction.  In the very beginning I was hitting the stim and then saying his name perhaps a half second later.  Once he was wise to the ”game” I started to say his name slightly before the stim.  It is a very subtle difference and would probably be impossible to notice if you were watching.  The results were excellent.  I gradually increased the distraction and he eventually got to the point that he viewed a distraction as a cue to look at me!  I had to make sure he was properly rewarded at all times and it was well worth it.  

The next article is about perfecting the recall and heel position and heeling with attention.

[[[part one]]]    [[[part two]]]

You can find a selection of electronic collars at the SBR store.

I find it hard to look at these and not smile.  I feel so blessed to have dogs in my life.

He looks like he is having a ball just bein a dog and doin dog stuff.

And you know this one is a natural born comedian. 

Is that a snarl, a sneeze or an Elvis impression.

It’s good to have fun with the kids.

Guess what happened 2 seconds after this shot was taken.

Do you feed strays? Now that face makes up for what he must smell like.

This series of articles is based on my personal experiences training with an electronic collar.  

Part one of this series explains how the e-collar works, the features, intensity levels and the need to prepare the dog before initial use.

 
My goal in training any dog is of course to teach the animal to understand and carry out my commands. But I also want to communicate my intentions in such a way that not only will the dog obey, but he will do it with enthusiasm and enjoy his work. I want to see a happy animal working beside me, not a nervous reluctant partner, always fearful of making a mistake or looking to escape being under my control.

Preparing the Dog

Turning On The Collar

The First Exercise

February 11 2010 Walk in the Woods

This image does not capture the magic of this place when the sun is coming up and there is a thick frost that sparkles everywhere.  It is such a peaceful way to start a day, walking with my dog, finding deer tracks and watching the sunrise.

Every single leaf and blade of grass is covered in thick frost this morning.

This is Zorro, my black German Shepherd playing in the snow with his favorite toy, the black kong.  2009

This is a fun picture of Zorro and I making Snowdogs in the wet spring snow.

This series of articles is based on my personal experiences training with an electronic collar.

 This article describes the e-collar and how it works and the theory behind the method.

I have been training dogs for a number of years in obedience, schutzhund, personal protection, tracking and agility.  As long as I am able I will likely continue to train.  I have always welcomed new ideas, theories, methods and equipment.  An open mind and the willingness to learn new things has helped me to advance my skills and further achieve my goals.

I bought my first e-collar about ten years ago and I still use it today. I own the Tritronics Sport 60. It is designed for medium to large breeds. I have been happy with the quality of this collar but I would have liked to have had the option to change the length of the prongs to use with some of the heavier coated dogs I have trained.  This was not a big problem, but it is a feature I would look for in a future purchase.  The Sport 60 has a paging button that allows you to send a soft tone that is usually only heard by the dog.  I have used this for a silent recall and it works fairly well.  It also has two larger color coded buttons used to deliver the electronic sensation (what I call the stim) to the dog.  One button is used for a short burst, so you would have to release the button and push it again if you want to resend.  The other button is continuous and delivers a stim as long as your finger is on the button.  The strength of correction this collar delivers is adjustable with six progressive choices of 1/2, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.  The collar is rechargeable and the remote unit takes a 9 volt battery.  The time it takes to discharge the collar varies depending on weather and how often you press the button and at what intensity.  I had no problems with using the collar all day on more then one dog and never ran out of power.  It does take several hours to recharge so I would put it on the charger overnight. 

I did experience ALL of the intensity levels on my bare skin, first on my arm and then on my neck.  This might sound unnecessary, but I wanted to have at least some understanding of what the dog is experiencing throughout the training.  Level 1/2 is so mild it is not so much a correction as an alert.  Level 5 hurt, but I can see how all levels are useful depending on how you fit the collar and the sensitivity of the dog.  The level I usually use is 2. 

How you fit the collar and how you condition the dog BEFORE using this training method is crucial.  The collar is not used as a correction for undesirable behavior but more of a communication tool that the dog learns HE can control.  You can achieve a lot with the proper use of this valuable tool, but in my opinion, you can also mess a dog up and cause a lot of problems if you do not use it correctly.  Take your time, do your homework and you should end up with a well trained reliable dog.

My next article covers how to fit the collar and how to condition the dog prior to starting your training.  It also covers the theory behind this training method and why it works so well. 

http://siennabrickroad.com/2010/02/training-with-an-electronic-collar-part-two/

You can find a selection of Electronic Training Collars at the SBR Dog Store.  I have not purchased a collar in a number of years and I see there are improvements in features and price since I bought my first one.  I will do a review of whats new soon. 

[Part Two]    [Part Three]

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In part one I talked about why I use crates and all of the practical reasons I find them so invaluable if you own a dog. Now I would like to talk about how to use them properly.

Choosing the Right Crate

I have two types of crates. The plastic type and the wire type. I like the plastic because they are durable, easy to clean, have a solid roof and last a long time. They are also airline approved. The wire type is nice in hot weather if you want a lot of air circulation. I think my dogs prefer the type that has partial solid sides for the privacy aspect, but you can put a blanket over the wire type to solve that problem. The wire crates are usually collapsible for storage so that might come in handy too. So far I do not own the nylon collapsible type but owners of small dogs say they are pretty good. I have large breed dogs so carrying them around is not an option.

Make sure you buy the correct size for your breed of dog. If you have a large breed dog, and bring it home as a puppy, then your crate will be much too big at first. Dogs naturally have an instinct to be clean and not mess where they sleep but if the crate is very large the pup may go to the back of the crate to relieve himself. You have two options, buy or borrow a smaller crate until he outgrows it, or buy a size suitable for him at his adult size and put a barrier inside to prevent him from moving to the back. Just leave him a comfortable area to sleep in the front. The rule of thumb is that he should be able to stand up and turn around easily. The idea is that he rests and uses it as his den not a playpen.

The last pup I bought was about 300 miles away. I went to pick him up and had a crate in the back of my SUV ready to bring him home. He was about nine weeks old. The crate was a little too big but it was what I had and I had rolled up towels in the back and a nice thick carpet and towels for him to sleep on during the ride. Before we left I played with him and took him for a walk and made sure he had a drink. I had another dog with me on that trip and that may or may not have helped put the pup at ease, hard to say.

So with the crate secured where I could peek in easily we headed out. A crate should be tied down even if in an enclosed vehicle. I wanted to be sure he wasn’t chewing and swallowing towels and this way I could keep an eye on him and from time to time place my fingers through the grate in the door to let him know he was not alone. He cried for the first few minutes but it didn’t last long and he tired himself out and curled up for a nap. Common sense has to prevail here as in all dog training. There is no “one rule” for all dogs.

Unstable Dogs – Fear of Confinement

There is a difference between crying and protesting a bit and real anxiety. My pup had been socialized at the breeder and was very stable in his personality so his few minutes of crying and howling really didn’t worry me much. I did watch and listen however so that I could decide if it was acceptable to leave him in the crate. I have seen dogs that have severe anxiety and that is something much different. My pup had a bit of a temper and his protests got pretty loud for a while. But he wasn’t frantic. I saw a dog locked up once that chewed at the bars, breaking teeth, screaming, shaking uncontrollably and making himself sick, throwing himself into the walls and door of the crate. That is not the type of dog that should be locked in a crate till he calms down. He will injure himself and in my opinion it is cruel to subject an unstable dog to this kind of stress. Use your best judgment here. Is the pup being stubborn or is he is truly under extreme stress? If he has true anxiety you will just make matters worse by confining him. Most dogs however, if they are comfortable and can see you, they tire out and go to sleep or at least relax and realize they are not so bad off in the crate.

I made frequent stops and took him out to pee and play a bit, walk around and stretch. He was offered small amounts of food and had some chew toys in his crate. Of course lots of fresh water was offered as well. He quickly got used to the routine and seemed quite happy. One time however he woke up and let out a howl that scared me half to death because it had been quiet a while and I almost forget he was there.

When we got home he was let out for a run and I brought the same crate in the house for him to sleep in. I keep the pup close to me whenever possible. If I am in the living room using my computer or watching TV, that is where I have the crate. At bedtime he is walked and then put in the crate that is placed close to my bed. I keep it close enough that he knows I am there and also I can talk to him or put my hand in the crate to show some affection. He gets lots of play and cuddle time and even sleeps in my lap but when I have things to do he is placed in the crate where I can see him. I find dogs generally learn quickly how to be quiet and amuse themselves with toys for their quiet time. This is for his safety as well. A pup can locate and chew through an electrical cord pretty fast when you run to answer the door or the phone. The results can be tragic, so do yourself and the dog a favor and eliminate the possibility of injury or harm to your belongings.

Housebreaking

For housebreaking my goal is to never let him make a mistake. The more dogs I have trained the better I get at knowing when he needs to go out. I never paper train, and transition to outside. I have a designated area outside that all the dogs use. They are not permitted to go in their outdoor runs or in the yard. I am fortunate to have an acreage so I can designate an area far enough from the house that makes it easier to keep the yard clean. The way I look at housebreaking is that if the pup makes a mistake, it’s really my mistake for not watching him closely enough. If you observe him carefully, you will soon see the pattern and be able to predict when he needs to go out. Pups usually have to go as soon as they wake up, after play and after food and water. If you give the pup a fair chance to do the right thing, they usually do.

One quick note about feeding. After exercise I give the pup time to relax before feeding. Also, I never let the dog run and play directly after eating. At best he can get sick and vomit up his meal and at worst he can develop torsion which can be very serious and often fatal. It is a condition where the stomach fills with gas and actually twists. An internet search can give you more information. I found one good explanation here: http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/caninebloat.htm

The first few weeks are the most labor intensive but it gets easier pretty quickly. The rule is that if I am not directly interacting with the dog then he is in the crate. He is never left in the crate for long periods of time except at night, and even then I am prepared to take him out at least twice.

What if there is a Mistake?

 
As I said, make it your goal to not let it happen, that is the best, however they can squat and pee in an instant and so if it happens, take him to his spot immediately and when he goes there give him some praise. My dogs “go busy” or “go outside”. The word “busy” is unique and my dogs understand what it means. This is handy when I need the dog to go quickly, like when we stop for a break on the roadside and I need to get moving. They know the difference between a “sniff/explore” session and “lets do what we have to now” so we can get going. Of course you want to clean up the mess as soon as possible and as thorough as you can. I use organic type odor eliminators. Ask at the pet retailer what seems to work best for eliminating stains and odors.

The crate housebreaking method is incredibly simple really and it does not take that long for the dog to become comfortable with the routine. They are creatures of habit and the more you can stick to a schedule the better.

In the years I was training my dogs for sport I traveled with them a lot. My crates were essential during that time. I was often training more then one dog and the one not on the field would be waiting in his crate for his turn. In summer I would keep a tarp up like an awning or take the crates out and place them in a shaded area. Each dog had a large plastic dish that snapped on to the inside door of the crate so he always had water. In extreme heat I would freeze the water and also put ice packs under the carpet to help keep him cool.

Another handy thing is I attach a canvas or nylon bag to the back of the crates to hold toys, treats or training tools. Everything is organized and makes training day go a lot smoother if I am not looking for things and figuring out which things belong to which dog.

I am fortunate to not have had an accident while dogs where in the vehicle but I have heard the stories from people I train with that were not so lucky. Some stories ended good and some not. One lady lost her Newfoundlander in a rollover accident. The dog escaped and ran off and was never recovered. A dog becomes a projectile if left loose in the car and no matter what happens that can’t end in a good way. If the dog had been contained in a proper travel crate maybe this would not have happened. Some of my crates snap together but they also come with screws and if you properly screw them together they are pretty darn durable even in a crash. I also like seatbelts for dogs but crates are my first choice.

Sienna Brick Road was proud to sponsor a Halloween Dog Costume Contest last month and for doing that I got to look at the entries and pick a winner. I just love Pit bulls and Jack Russell Terriers and the winning entry had both. A pit bull dressed as Mr. T was the winner.

You can see the winner at  http://forhealthydogs.com/halloweencontest.html

Congratulations to the winner and thank you to everyone who took the time to enter.

~Sienna

Part One of Two

First I will talk about the “why” I use crates, and then, in Part Two, I will explain how I use them for training. 
________________________________________________________________________________________

 
I must own at least a dozen crates and they are one of the most useful tools I have ever come across for training dogs. I know, I have been told it’s cruel to “lock a dog up” but, like many tools, they can be used in different ways and I believe I use them in a way that is actually beneficial to me and the dog—win win. I don’t want to have a dog so I can lock it in a crate for most of her day.  But when I need to use the crate I don’t hesitate.  When I welcome a dog into my life I take the time to understand the nature of the animal and make the effort to train her to blend well into my home and my life.  

I have owned some very high drive dogs that would have been a nightmare if they would have landed in homes that did not know, or did not care, to train them to behave with good manners in the house, not to mention around people in general.  Yes, crate training is just part of what is used to direct the dog to behave in the desired fashion, but it’s a really important part, that is incredibly simple and something that you will one day be very glad you tried. 

As A Training Tool

There is good and bad experiences that come with dog ownership, why not make it as pleasant as possible?  I don’t want to have some unruly monster in my house leaving puddles and piles everywhere, barking, chewing my furniture and causing chaos. It would make it kind of tough to love them.  Proper crate training can virtually eliminate many of those problems.  I believe dogs need a quiet comfortable place to go to relax.  They need a den.  Once my dogs are trained and trustworthy I rarely close the crate door and they still willingly go to the crate to rest and sleep.  

The wire type crate, great for hot weather but not as sturdy as the plastic airline approved kennels.

For Travel

Crates are invaluable tools for housebreaking a puppy, (refer to part two of this article) but I use crates for much more.  I use them in the back of my truck for travel.  In summertime the dogs ride in comfort in the box of a pickup inside their crates. My crates are the type that is airline approved. They have a roof to keep the sun off and they have plenty of fresh air.  The crates are properly secured to the bed of the truck with nylon ratchet type tie downs.  They have places to secure water dishes and I line the bottom with carpet remnants that make a soft comfortable place to lay.  If the weather is hot I can put ice packs under the carpet to help keep them cool.  

When I reach my destination they have a safe place to lie comfortably when I have to leave them.  If I am staying overnight in a hotel or motel the crates can come in the room with me and provide a bed for the night.  I never let my dogs ride loose in a vehicle.  If they are in the back of the truck they are in crates or occasionally if they are in the cab where a crate doesn’t fit for my large breeds, they have seatbelts.  

Whenever possible I take my dogs with me for socializing and for company.  Even when I had an office job, my boss allowed me to bring the pup and let him sleep under my desk in his crate.  At times I would leave him in the back of my SUV inside his crate and visit him several times a day to take him for walks and feed and water him.  This was good for me because I could work and I looked forward to my breaks with him.  And it was good for him, he learned to stay quiet and rest and most of the time I would wake him up when I went to check on him and take him for his pee break.  It was good to be able to spend so much time with him.  Of course most people wanted to play with him and pet him which was great for socializing and he got to see and hear a lot of things.  Now it should go without saying but I will say it anyway.  I NEVER leave my dog in a hot vehicle, I did this only usually during winter months when I was sure he would be comfortable with vents and windows open enough to ensure fresh air.  I was also fortunate to be able to park where I could see the vehicle and could run out in seconds for a quick peek. 

To Protect Him

Crates are not just to keep him out of things, but to keep things away from him sometimes.  If I have company or children or people bring other pets that may overwhelm him, he has a place to go relax.  My old dog used to enjoy going in his crate and having the door closed when the pups were relentless in chewing his ears and tail.  As patient as he was he did deserve to be left alone when he had enough.  The crate worked well to keep the little ones from driving him crazy. Children visiting also come to mind.  

 To Enable Rest After a Veterinary Procedure or Injury

Sometimes the dog is on forced crate rest after a medical procedure or if he pulled a muscle during play.  My high energy dogs would go and go and if I didn’t confine them to the crate they would not have had the rest they needed to heal the minor injuries they sometimes incur. 

I have explained why to use a crate and in Part Two of this article I will explain how I use them to housebreak a pup.  Check back next week for the training portion in part two.  

Another season of riding has come to an end here in central Alberta. Now it is time to put the bike away for the winter. On my last ride I filled my gas tank and added fuel stabilizer. If I am not going to drain the fuel tank then I use the stabilizer.  I purchased oil and a filter according to the manufacturer guidelines and when I got home and while my engine was hot, I started the oil change. Make sure you choose motorcycle oil because motorcycles have a wet clutch that is lubricated by the engine oil. If unsure go to your dealer and ask them what to use. Old oil is acidic, so if it is going to sit all winter I want it to be with fresh oil. That is why I do the oil change before storage and not in the spring.

The first thing I did was locate the drain bolt and loosened it slightly using a 17mm wrench.

Draining the Old Oil

Loosening the drain bolt.

 Then I positioned an oil pan under the engine making sure it would catch the oil as it flowed out.  I try to center it the best I can so it doesn’t splash over the edge.  I use a pan made especially for catching oil because it is designed with spouts and handles that make handling the old oil a bit easier.  I transfer the old oil into jugs to dispose of at my county collection area.

Now, with the pan ready to catch the hot oil I can loosen the bolt and remove it.  Do this slowly and carefully so you don’t suddenly have hot oil on your hand or drop the bolt into the oil. It tends to gush out fairly fast at first and can get you by surprise.  I was wearing shop gloves to help protect my hands.  Set the bolt aside ensuring it stays clean and let the oil drain into the catch pan. 

Old oil draining into the pan.

Removing the Oil Covers

 While the oil is draining you can start removing the outer oil filter cover.  There is an outer and inner cover. The outer cover is removed with a 4mm allen wrench.

Outer cover and allen wrench.

I keep a little container handy to put the bolts in so I don’t loose track of them and they stay clean.  Using the allen wrench was a bit hard so I had to wrestle with it a bit and use another wrench to extend the handle and finally got all the long bolts out. 

Once the outer cover is off you can start taking out the bolts on the inner cover.

The outer cover removed.

 When the inner cover is removed you can easily remove the O-ring and the oil filter.

Cover off showing O-ring and filter.

There is a place on the drain pan to set the filter to drip until you are ready to dispose of it properly.  I check to make sure the surface is clean and put the new O-ring and filter in place. Now I just work in reverse and put the cover back on using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the suggested specifications. When tightening the bolts I use a criss-cross pattern and do not tighten them all the way at first.  My manual said the cover bolt was 10Nm (1.0 m-kgf, 7 ft-lb).  The torque wrench is pretty easy to use.  You set the amount of torque you want and turn it till it clicks.  This will ensure the bolts are tightened properly and neither too loose nor over tightened.

By now the engine oil should be just about drained.  My bike was on a kickstand so I sat on it and picked it up and put it back on the kickstand several times to get as much oil out as I could.  When I was satisfied all the oil that was going to come out was out, I replaced the drain bolt ensuring it was clean and hadn’t picked up any grit or dirt.  I also made sure the washer was in good shape and clean.  This bolt is also tightened with a torque wrench.  The manual says 43 Nm (4.3m-kgf, 31 ft-lb).

When that is done, you can remove the pan and put the new oil into the filler.  I go by the manufacturer specs on this and make sure I have the correct type of oil and the right amount for my engine.  My engine (when changing the filter as well) takes 2.80 L.  Take care that everything going into the engine is very clean. I clean the filler and I am careful no contaminants get into the oil.  Once that is done you can replace and hand tighten the oil filler cap.

After one final check that everything is back in place, you can start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes and watch to see if there are any leaks.  I watch and make sure the engine light goes out in the appropriate time and listen to the engine noting if there are any unusual clattering noises.  (If that’s the case, shut the engine off immediately.)  If you did everything right it should be ok.

All you have left to do now is shut the engine off and check the oil level in the site gauge.  This is best done with one person checking the site and another holding the bike in an upright position.

A future article will go into the other preparations for storage. 

Changing the oil isn’t that hard and it gives you confidence to try other things.  If you are unsure, have someone with experience watch you the first time and make sure you do everything right. 

I just make sure I follow the guidelines and instructions suggested by the manufacturer. 

Good luck!

Editor’s note: SBR welcomes the following article from R. Hudon from For Healthy Dogs.com

Let’s start off with the basics, because some puppies can be expensive and most people can’t afford to go out and spend another large chunk of money on supplies. If you know in advance that you’re getting your puppy it’s a good idea to start buying items here and there so it’s not such a financial burden all at once. Here are the things you must have before bringing your puppy home.

Food
The first and most obvious item on the list, a good quality puppy food. Find out the type of food the breeder has started the puppy on and if it is a good quality food and it is available to you then it’s usually recommended to continue feeding the puppy the same food. If you wish to change the food just make sure you do it gradually. You might have to purchase a small portion of the food the breeder was using to mix with the new food. Sometimes the breeder will supply you with a bit of food for this purpose. If you’re not sure what type of food to feed your puppy, read ‘The Quick Guide to Choosing the Right Dog Food’

Food Bowl
Your puppy will need a food and water dish. There are many different dishes, bowls and feeders available nowadays but there are only really two things you should look for. Try to avoid plastic bowls as they can harbor bacteria and the plastic can leach chemicals into the food or water. It’s best to use a stainless steel or ceramic bowl for your new puppy. Second, find a bowl with a good sturdy base that’s not easy for a clumsy puppy to tip over.

Bed
Choosing a bed for your puppy depends on how you are planning on training him. If you are going to train your puppy to stay off the beds and furniture, then you must provide him his own place to sleep. If you are planning on crate training your puppy then you can just use the crate as a bed by throwing in a blanket or some towels. Puppies chew everything so don’t use your best towels. If you decide to buy a new bed for your puppy keep in mind it may get chewed or peed on! This is why some people prefer to wait until the puppy is older before buying a new bed. An excellent product for puppies is a plastic dog bed. They are easy to clean, chew-resistant and you can use your own towels, blanket or cushion for the bedding.

Collar with Identification Tag
It’s important to start getting your puppy used to collars and leashes early. Make sure your puppy’s first collar is comfortable and adjustable. The more comfortable the collar is, the easier it will be for your puppy to accept it. Try to find a collar that is soft or padded on the inside. You must get a collar that is adjustable as your puppy will grow fast and will outgrow a collar quickly. It’s important that your puppy’s collar has some form of identification in case your puppy runs away or gets separated from you for any reason.

Leash
A regular 6 foot leash is perfect for a new puppy. You can also buy a training lead which is basically a really long leash and you can get them as long as 50 feet.

Toys
All puppies need toys and it doesn’t have to be expensive. An old stuffed animal can make a great companion for a puppy. You can even buy pillows or plush puppy toys that have a heartbeat to calm and comfort your puppy at night or when he is alone. A puppy should always have something safe to chew on because if not they will start to chew other things they aren’t supposed to. Teething toys are also a necessity once your puppy’s new teeth start coming in.

Crate
A crate is an excellent training tool for puppies as well as a cozy place to call his own. When looking for a crate, keep in mind that your puppy is going to grow and if you get a ‘puppy-sized’ crate, you’re just going to have to get a new one once he outgrows it. A crate should be big enough for him to stand up and turn around in. One way to solve this problem is to purchase a crate that will hold the puppy when he is full-grown and place a cardboard box or something in the back to make the crate space more suitable to your puppy’s size. Some crates come with dividers which works great as well. If the crate is too big your puppy will be more likely to have accidents inside the crate.

Training Pads
Again, this item depends on how you are planning to housebreak your puppy. If you are planning on using training pads, just make sure you get a size large enough for your puppy to pee on without making a mess.
Once you’ve acquired all the basic items and your puppy is adjusting to his new home, you can start stocking up on the rest of the supplies that your puppy may eventually need. Some items are optional as they may not apply to your puppy’s situation.
• Puppy Shampoo & Conditioner
• Puppy Brush or Comb
• Puppy Toothbrush
• Puppy Carrier (for small dogs)
• Safety Gate
• Exercise Pen or Play Yard
• Tie-Out Cable
• Bitter Apple (to deter your puppy from chewing, licking)
• Stain/Odor Neutralizer (for eliminating any sign of ‘mistakes’ in the house)
• Training Books
For more information as well as product recommendations for all of your new puppy’s needs, visit For Healthy Dogs.com

Review – Ride Like A Pro – Jerry “Motorman” Palladino

I have owned volume four of this DVD since I got my first bike in 2006. I still like to watch it from time to time to refresh my skills. I often find things that I had learned at one point but still need to sharpen up on. Jerry Palladino is an experienced Motorcycle Cop who shares what he has learned during his training. All of it is valuable if you want to learn to ride well, not just ride.

There are several different kinds of bikes featured in the video with male and female riders. Being a woman I was encouraged to see that even a woman of medium to small stature can handle the biggest cruiser type bikes and make it look effortless. It even shows what to do if you drop your bike. This is something both male and female riders can appreciate and it’s a valuable technique.

There is a lot of slow speed maneuvering that helps you learn how to use your clutch in the friction zone and lots of simple easy to learn tips to make life so much easier when you are out on your bike. You don’t have to avoid tricky situations anymore because you know how to handle the things you are likely to encounter.

The DVD comes with a handy fold out exercise guide that helps you go through the skills you need to obtain your motorcycle drivers license.

Jerry is likeable, friendly and knowledgeable, the instructions are clear and he does not overwhelm you with too much information, he simply explains what you need to know and demonstrates it flawlessly. You get to observe students as they learn and even see a dropped bike or two. This also taught me it’s not the end of the world if you and your bike are properly equipped. The students have fun but also learn that biking has a serious side which is why we all need to learn to drive safely. I highly recommend you add this to your library or give it as a gift to friends who ride or want to learn to ride. Its money well spent in my opinion.

There is information at the end of this article as to where you can obtain your copy.

~Sienna

The following is a description of the product and links to other reviews. I think you will enjoy having this in your library.

Product Description
If you’ve ever seen Motor Officers handle their heavy-weight cruisers with the ease of a child’s toy and wondered in amazement how they do it, wonder no more. This DVD will show you how to use the 3 simple Motor Officer techniques the cops have been trained in for more than 60 years. Until now, these training secrets have not been available to the general public. I have developed a simple step by step procedure that will allow you to master the 3 Motor Officer techniques in just 3 to 4 hours. I know my step by step plan works because I’ve put hundreds of students through the exact course you’ll see on this DVD. I use a modified version of the Police Motor Officer course that can be mastered in just 1 day. Even riders with 20 years of experience will improve their skills by 100%. I’ll even show you the tricks to passing your State motorcycle endorsement test. This DVD will also show you how to master the actual Police Motor Officer course so that you too can be among the top 2% of riders in America. Featuring 6 male and 5 female riders. DVD NTSC std. 110 min. color.

Ride Like a Pro DVD Vol. 5 – Jerry

by David Hough

This is another favorite of mine.  Easy to understand, good illustrations and very valuable food for thought as you ride.  ~Sienna  

Until recently, I’ve never had the desire to ride a motorcycle, mainly because I was afraid of becoming an organ donor. However, that suddenly changed a couple of months back, probably due to turning 37 and sitting through a marathon viewing session of “American Chopper” episodes. So, I began to shop around for a bike that would fit me, and at the same time I tapped into all the informational sources I could find about motorcycling (friends, the Web, etc.). “Proficient Motorcycling” was one of the first books I read, and I bought it based on the good reviews I saw on Amazon.com. It was my desire to arm myself with as much knowledge and hands-on riding skills as possible before swinging a leg over the motorcycle I finally settled upon (a Harley-Davidson Fat Boy). I signed up at a local Harley-Davidson dealer for a “Rider’s Edge” class, and “Proficient Motorcycling” was an excellent supplement to the MSF course materials. Indeed, Mr. Hough recommends taking an MSF course, and frankly I can’t imagine a novice trying to ride without formal instruction. The techniques that Mr. Hough advocates in “Proficient Motorcycling” have made me a better AND safer rider. I feel more confident riding my new H-D, and therefore I’m able to enjoy my road-time that much more. I’ve already started reading the book’s sequel “More Proficient Motorcycling: Mastering the Ride” to build upon what I’ve learned so far. If you want to be a good motorcyclist (and not a “donor-cyclist”), then by all means dive into “Proficient Motorcycling.”

I have read this book a few times. Every season I bring it out again to refresh my memory on the lessons.  It has excellent advice and is well presented.   I recommend it to any rider at any level who does not just want to ride, but ride well.  It could save your life.  The following is some information about the book, how to get it, and what others are saying about it.  Its a classic.    

~Sienna

• Paperback: 192 pages
• Publisher: Whitehorse Press; Second edition (Oct 1 2005)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1884313477
• ISBN-13: 978-1884313479
• Product Dimensions: 26.4 x 20.8 x 1.5 cm
• Shipping Weight: 704 g

“So you say you’ve been riding for thirty years and you’ll bet there’s nothing this book can teach you? I’ll take that wager. The discussions on proper cornering techniques and the relationship between the forces acting upon a bike are alone worth the price of admission. You’ll also benefit from a detailed chart on the T-CLOCK inspection method that serves as an excellent check sheet for prepping your bike, whether for a day ride or a long-distance tour.

Know someone who is considering taking up the sport? Do them a favor – buy them this book and then encourage them to enroll in a safety course to practice the skills it covers. What the book does especially well is serve as an intelligent introduction to the world of motorcycling. It will help a person understand the risks involved in the sport and how to minimize them. –This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Motorcycle Times, Mar/Apr 1995

North East Area Concours Owners Group

BMW Owners News, April 1995

Street Bike

BMW Owners News

Motorcyclist

Kansas City Star

Iron Works

Product Description

Here is a book for the motorcyclist who wants to do it right! The most complete, authoritative book ever published on safe riding techniques and strategies. More than one million students have completed courses developed by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, and this book is the culmination of what that leading rider training organization has learned about teaching students of all ages and experience. It is the perfect refresher for anyone who has taken an MSF course and will be an eye-opener for those who have not yet discovered them. In a clear, engaging style with detailed diagrams and extensive full-color photographs and illustrations, the book covers rider attitude, proper dress, performance, maintenance and troubleshooting, as well as basic and advanced street skills. Included are tips on how to stop quickly when necessary; avoid traffic hazards; apply evasive maneuvers; countersteer for better control; travel skillfully in a group; identify and fix mechanical problems; ride more smoothly at high and low speeds; maintain momentum in off-highway riding; and much more. A remarkable source of riding wisdom, the first edition has been a best-seller and the definitive reference for the sport. This new second edition features the latest insights from the new, updated MSF curriculum, plus all new photos and graphics that make its valuable lessons easy to follow. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide to Motorcycling Excellence: Skills, Knowledge, and Strategies for Riding Right

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide to Motorcycling Excellence: Skills, Knowledge, and Strategies for Riding Right (2nd Edition)

One of my favorties, the Honda Valkyrie, no longer in production. Something to grow in to.

Choosing my first motorcycle was not easy but it was exciting.  My only experience was riding a 250cc cruiser type bike in the safety course.  I understand why they start you off on a small bike, its easier to balance because it’s lighter, and they are a little more forgiving if you tend to be a bit quick with the throttle. 

Doing the Homework

I did a lot of research, reading magazines, talking on the boards online, talking to my instructors, sales people and anyone that would listen that had an opinion.  I was pleasantly surprised by how friendly and helpful most people were with their advice.  Even the sales staff, who are obviously interested in making a sale. Fortunately, the ones I came across probably knew I would be back in a few years for something bigger and wanted me to be safe and have a good fit so they steered me in the right direction most of the time.

The very first bike I sat on that I was interested in purchasing was a Yamaha Vstar 650 Custom Cruiser.  I liked how it looked and liked how it felt sitting on it in the show room.  My feet touched the ground flat footed and I was able to bring it off the kickstand into riding position without too much effort.  I had someone hold the front of the bike so I could put both feet up and feel how the riding position would be, how close the handlebars are to my body, if it was easy to shift and brake etc.  I could do a full turn on the handlebars without having to lean forward.  It felt good. 

The 2006 Vstar 650 Silverado Model with bags, backrest and windshield.

For the next week I sat on every other bike for sale in a 100 mile radius—or so it seemed.  Because I have small hands I was particularly concerned with brake and clutch levers.  Some clutch levers are really a stretch for me to grasp.  Some bikes I would get on and immediately know it was not for me.  Usually the reason was that it was too tall and wide and too heavy.  With some the seat would dig into my thigh and even in riding position it just was not comfortable. 

If I found a bike I liked but was not quite right for me I discussed ways I could adjust it to suit me.  Some offered very little or no adjustment options and others were designed more in favor of some tweaking.

The first few days I had eliminated the 125 and 250 cruiser types.  I think they would have been ok for a few weeks but I felt I would out grow it very fast and it just plain wasn’t what I wanted.  I felt it was too small.  I am not a very big person, 5’5” and 135 lbs with a 32” inseam.  Most cruiser type bikes are low enough but some are much wider then others and are a bit uncomfortable.  

My concerns about power were not that I would get something too powerful for me to handle, but rather not enough for hills and highways.  From my years of riding horses I have very soft hands and I am not likely to twist the throttle too hard but it is a consideration.  My thoughts are that if I am a beginner my brain and body need to learn things and I am likely to make mistakes, so make them on something that might be a bit more forgiving.  The power offered by the 650cc v twin seemed about right to me, so anything in that range I felt would meet my needs for several years to come. 

Another thing to consider is how easy is the bike to maneuver in tight parking places, how wide a path do I need to turn, can I push it easily if I have to etc.  It seemed to fit the bill in that area fairly well.  Not as easy as the 250 but everything is a compromise.

I even tried a few sport bikes but did not seriously consider it as a possible first bike. I liked how light they were, but the riding position intimidated me a bit and most were a tad too tall for me.  I could put my toes on the ground but I wanted flat feet to feel more confident.  I am now looking for sport bike after 4 years but that’s another story for another article.

Lovin the Hayabusa for "someday".

I pretty much knew from day one I wanted a cruiser so that helped a bit, I could walk past the sport tours, the big touring Goldwing types, the Hayabusas, dirt bikes and naked bikes.  I did sit on them though and I am glad I did.  Even back then I can say I loved motorcycles, all of them, I just realize that not all of them will make me happy.

So now that I narrowed it down to a cruiser type bike in the 650 class, somewhere around 550 lbs, give or take, I could start researching brands, reliability etc.  I never planned on taking a passenger unless and until I had a lot more experience so I did not worry about passenger comfort at all.  I think many manufacturers put a passenger seat on as an afterthought anyway and unless you really want to torture your riding companion you won’t take them farther then a block.

Patience Pays Off – Narrow Your Choices

So back I go on my rounds of the local dealers.  At least now I know the type and size I want.   Price was not the biggest thing for me but certainly important and of course I take that into consideration.  But dealing and making the sale was the last step in my plan.  Now I started sitting on the potential bikes without as much distraction and with a more critical eye.  Some bikes seemed much better balanced then others just because of the way they are designed.  Today as I have progressed to larger bikes I notice this even more and the heavier the bike is the more important it is to me that it be balanced the way I like. 

All of the bikes I was considering were similar and I narrowed it down to a Honda Shadow or a Yamaha VStar.  The dealer made the difference for me and I got a bit of a better deal on the Yamaha and went with it.  Coincidentally it was the very first bike I ever sat on, I was drawn to the look of it and when I sat on it, well it felt “right”.  My instincts were right on and in hindsight I can see I made the best choice for me at the time.  I have ridden that bike for four seasons now and although I am looking for something bigger in the cruiser class and something totally different in a sport bike, I cannot imagine selling the 650.  I simply love her.

Trust Your Instincts

A word of caution about well intentioned friends.  A quick story about a woman I knew that was shopping for her first bike.  She had narrowed her choices to two and was about to make a decision on a new bike.  A friend saw a bike for sale that he thought was perfect for her and excitedly told her all about it.  It was obvious this was HIS dream bike, not hers and HE could not afford to buy it for himself.  She thought it was nice but way too big for her first bike.  He told her it was twice the bike she was considering buying for just a bit more.  It was used and her choice was new.  He told her how cool would it be for a girl to come riding up on this beautiful bike.  She was very very skeptical.  Yes he was right, it was twice as big and probably a good deal.  But he ignored the fact that it was not the right bike for HER.  Long story short, she bought it, dropped it twice, it terrified her and she was so put off and financially drained that she did not ride at all that season.  Last I heard she sold it, at a loss and has not decided if she will even buy a bike now.  What a shame!  Just remember that some big gorgeous custom might make you look good in your fantasy but when you fall over at bike night and see your dream scraped and dented its not so pretty.  Always ride within your means.  Be sensible and you will gain experience, have fun and who knows you may be on that dream bike sooner then you think.  And do what is right for you.  I listened to everyone that offered advice and appreciated it, but in the end I had to decide what was best for me.  Trust your gut, it is usually right. 

Good luck. 

Although the idea of clicker training may seem intimidating, it is actually the most simple and yet incredibly effective ways to train an animal. It is based on the natural desire of an animal to repeat a behaviour that produces a positive consequence.

In most cases of animal training, this is done with a treat, or a voice command such as “Good Boy!”. You tell your dog to sit, he does, and you give him a treat. That is a simple command, but what about more complex commands such as, “Go fetch my slippers” or “Turn off the light”. These behaviours are a lot harder to reinforce, especially when you are using different types of rewards all the time.

This is where the clicker comes in. The beauty of the clicker is the unmistakeable, sharp clicking sound it makes. This is a sound that ANY animal can recognize. It is a sound that can be easily picked out through the hubbub of daily noise and human voices. Most importantly, it is a sound that is consistent and precise.

When you speak to your pet whether in praise or training, the tone and pitch of your voice varies all the time and you probably don’t even notice it. But animals can. They don’t understand words as well as they do sounds which is why they are more sensitive to tones and frequency. All animals can recognize and understand the click.

Another great reason the clicker is so effective is because of it’s precise timing. When you use your voice you usually praise your pet after it performs the command. With a clicker you click the instant your pet does what you want it to do. This is how you eventually learn how to shape certain behaviours and teach your pet more complex commands. Once you teach your pet to associate the click with a positive reward, your pet will begin to work for the sound of that click even without a reward.

Clicker training does indeed work and it is a very powerful training tool! It has been used successfully on horses, birds, dolphins, cats, guinea pigs and more. It is the most preferred training method for animals in Hollywood and it is becoming more and more popular in households and training centers around the world.

Authors note:

We have a great selection of clickers available online as well as books and resources on clicker training. Check out our Training Tools section at www.forhealthydogs.com

Editors note: Siennabrickroad welcomes the following article by R. Hudon at For Healthy Dogs.com

Choosing the right kind of food for your dog can be quite confusing with the multitude of choices that are available today. The dog food industry is a huge market targeting over 60 million customers in the U.S alone. Unfortunately, with a market this big this only leaves room for a larger amount of lower quality products to try to avoid. Without knowing exactly what you should be looking for, it can be very difficult to determine which is the right food for your dog and which foods you should stay away from.

•The first and most obvious thing to look for is the price of the dog food. If the price is really cheap, then there is a reason for it. If it was made with good quality products the company couldn’t afford to sell their product so cheap. This is the first red flag you should look for. This could mean the food is made with animal by-products instead of real meat because it is so much cheaper to use. Animal by-products are basically anything but meat. This can include necks, feathers, feet, hooves, claws, undeveloped eggs, and animal waste. Now don’t get the wrong idea and think that every high priced dog food you see must be made from good quality products. You still have to read the labels, but in most cases price is a good indication of the time and quality they put into their product.

•Reading labels is the most important step in choosing a dog food. If you think you don’t know what to look for, you would be surprised what you will find if you actually read the list of ingredients.
In fact, right in the list of ingredients of some large commercial dog foods I have actually seen them list ‘animal waste’ as an ingredient. Yet on the front of the bag they boast that their product is made from high-quality protein including real chicken. They aren’t lying, one of the ingredients listed was chicken, but they are not going to advertise the rest of the ingredients on the front of the package in big, bright,eye-catching letters which is why you HAVE to read the ingredients! If you haven’t yet, go take a look at the ingredient list in your current brand of dog food. You may be shocked to see what your dog has been eating.

•Now besides looking for obvious unwanted products in the ingredient list, make sure the type of meat is listed on the package. If it says anything like, “Meat Meal” or “Meat and Bone Meal” stay far, far away.

•Do not buy anything with the ingredients ‘Corn gluten meal’ or ‘Wheat gluten meal’. This is often used as a filler and because it’s not digestible, all it does for your dog is cause him to produce more waste. Nobody wants that.

•Avoid any products that have chemical additives and artificial preservatives. The most common ones used being BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole), BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene), and Ethoxyquin. These have been known to cause a number of health problems in dogs such as allergies, dry skin, liver disease, cancer and general poor health.

•Never buy dog food at large, commercial grocery stores. You will not find good quality food there. The best place to find a good quality dog food is at a speciality pet store or online. Here you can find a great selection of top quality foods for your dog online.

There are many things to consider when thinking about the what kind of dog food to buy but if you know what to avoid, you are on the right path to keeping your dog healthy and happy.

Editors note: Siennabrickroad welcomes the following post from R. Hudon of For Healthy Dogs.com

Shedding in dogs is the natural process of losing an old coat to make room for a new one. This is usually triggered by seasonal changes and varies from dog to dog depending on it’s living arrangements. Dogs that are kept outside more than others will most likely lose their coats twice a year, once in the spring when they lose their winter coats and then once again in late fall/early winter as the winter coat grows in. If your dog is kept mostly indoors, his body might not register the seasonal changes which can cause him to shed all year long. Although it’s normal for all dogs to shed, (and for some dogs to shed a lot), if your dog is shedding excessively or there is a sudden increase in her shedding, this could be the sign of a problem. It’s always best to check with your vet first to exclude any possibilities of illness. If you know your pet is just shedding naturally and there is no underlying cause of illness (sometimes it can be stress too!) there are a few things you can do to cut down all the hair.

 Of course, the number one most obvious thing you can do is brush your dog daily. That hair has to go somewhere. It’s either on your floor or in a brush! If you are brushing your dog everyday and you’re still finding hair everywhere in your house, you might want to ask yourself a few questions; What kind of food is your dog eating? Is it high in protein and omega fatty acids? If your dog isn’t eating a balanced diet with these key nutrients it can cause him to shed more.

 Are you using the right kind of brush? If you are brushing your dog every day and still getting no results, you may be using the wrong brush. If you have not tried the famous FURminator Brush, you might want to invest in one. How Often are you Bathing your dog? It’s good to give your dog a good bath every once in awhile but if you are bathing your dog more than once a month it can strip the natural oils in the skin which in turn can cause an increase in shedding. If you want to bathe your dog and help her coat, try using a natural oatmeal shampoo. Is your dog living in a dry environment? Some places are a lot dryer than others and this can be a major factor in how much coat your dog loses. Remember, dry skin equals shedding. If your dog is mostly kept indoors sometimes using a humidifier in the house can help.

Have you tried giving your dog supplements? If you have tried everything else and your dog is still losing an undesirable amount of hair, you might want to try giving your dog supplements. You can buy supplements specifically formulated with all of the key nutrients that are known for reducing hair loss. If you are interested in purchasing products that reduce shedding including vitamins and supplements, natural shampoos & conditioners, grooming tools and more, check out our Shedding page at http://forhealthydogs.com

Editors note: Siennabrickroad welcomes the following post by R. Hudon of For Healthy Dogs. com

Routine ear care for basset hounds is necessary as their long, droopy ears make them more prone to bacterial and fungal infections than other breeds. Even if you are unable to clean your basset hound’s ears on a regular basis, it’s good to at least do a good home cleaning every once in awhile.

What You Need for a Basic Cleaning

1. A Basset Hound

2. The biggest cotton balls you can find

3. Ear Cleaning Solution for Dogs

Extra Items for a Better Cleaning

4. Ear Powder for Dogs

5. Hemostats or Hair Pullers for Dogs

6. Ear Cleansing Pads

If you are just doing a basic cleaning of your basset’s ears the first thing you should do is read the directions on the ear cleanser you are using and make sure you follow accordingly. Usually the method is to fill your dog’s ear canal with the cleanser and massage the base of the ear gently for a few minutes. When you are done, use the cotton balls to soak up the liquid and clean out the ears. (Never use Q-Tips on your dog’s ears.) Then you can grab those extra large cotton balls and use some cleanser to clean the inside surface of your basset hounds ears as well. Make sure to give your basset a lot of reassurance and praise. Keep telling her how big and beautiful her ears are and when you are done, reward her with a favourite treat.

Ear Powder

If your basset hound has a lot of hair in his ear canal, you might want to try using ear powder to aid in removal of the hairs and cleansing of the internal ear. Ear powder works by soaking up the moisture that builds up in your dog’s inner ear which is especially a problem in basset hounds due to the lack of ventilation to the ear canal. The moisture can eventually lead to fungus and bacterial infections. Ear powder also makes the hairs easier to grip, and more comfortable for your dog when pulling. You can use your fingers to gently pull individual hairs or small groups of hairs or you can use hemostats or hair pullers especially made for removal of ear hair in dogs. Again, give your basset a lot of praise and reassurance. Try to make it as pleasant an experience as possible.

Ear Cleansing Wipes/Pads

Ear Wipes or Pads are great when you don’t have the time to go through a thorough cleaning process with your basset hound. They come in the form of pre-moistened pads usually containing a variety of natural cleansers and ingredients. Ear wipes are a very handy product for keeping the inside of your basset hounds ear’s clean because you can just wipe them down instead of going through the whole cotton-ball/cleanser process. Wipes can also be used to clean the internal ear canal using a wipe wrapped around your finger.

Your basset hound is sure to appreciate a good ear cleaning and routine ear maintenance as his ears are his biggest and best feature and deserve to be well-taken care of.

View our recommended Ear Cleansing Solutions and Ear Wipes for Dogs as well as other best-selling ear care products at http://www.forhealthydogs.com

Editors note: Siennabrickroad welcomes the following post by R. Hudon from For Healthy Dogs.com

If your puppy is between 4-6 months of age he is most likely suffering from teething pains and would definitely appreciate some great teething toys to relieve his pain, boredom and frustration. It’s very important that your puppy has a variety of good teething toys because if not, he will find other things to chew on that may be unsafe.
According to research, customer reviews, product ratings and my own personal experience as a dog owner, here are some of the best recommended teething toys available for puppies.

Puppy Kong

If you are a dog owner I am sure you have heard of the famous Kong. All dogs love kongs, and you can buy them specifically for your puppy. Puppy Kongs are made from a special rubber formulation that’s more flexible than regular Kongs and come in different sizes for different breeds. Kongs are very durable which is great for keeping a puppy busy for long periods of time. If your puppy is not satisfied with the Kong alone, make use of the treat hole and stuff with a healthy treat or with Kong’s Puppy Ziggies, specially made treats for stuffing the puppy kong. If you don’t have anything to stuff your kong with, a lot of people just use peanut butter. Personally, I’ve never had a dog turn down a kong stuffed with a bit of peanut butter.

Nylabone Dental Dinosaur Flexible Chew

This flavour enhanced flexible dinosaur chew comes in three fun dinosaur shapes, brontosaurus, tyrannosaurus rex and stegosaurus. The raised tips are great for massaging your puppy’s sore gums and the unique shape provides your puppy many different chewing angles. The dental dinosaur comes in two colors, blue and white. Keep in mind the blue is the flexible chew which is better for young puppies. The white dinosaur is the non-flexible chew and is made for strong chewers.

Nylabone Puppy Fish Flexible Chew Medium Puppy Fish Flexible Chew

Made by Nylabone not only is this toy totally cool looking with it’s glow-in-the-dark skeleton but it also makes a great teething toy for your puppy. Durable yet flexible, these toy are flavoured with the irresistible taste of bacon and come in 3 sizes. Each size is a different shape and color.

Booda Fresh N’ Floss 2 Knot Cotton Rope Tug

This mint-flavored rope toy is excellent for keeping your puppy’s teeth clean and serves as a fun and satisfying chew toy. Tougher than rawhide and made with fluoride, this toy actually flosses your puppy’s teeth as he chews. This is a great toy for freezing to bring additional relief to your puppy during teething, just immerse in water and place in freezer. Your puppy will surely enjoy this soothing, minty, frozen treat.

Pet Stages Puppy Cool Teether

This soft, plush toy can also be frozen to soothe sore and tender gums and puppies love chewing on the knotted streamers on the end. A great toy to add to your puppy’s teething toy collection.

Kong Puppy Teething Stick

 These toys are made with Kong’s special teething rubber formula and exclusively designed for a puppy’s mouth. Exclusive denta-ridges on the toy are great for cleaning your puppy’s teeth and you can even fill these ridges with treats. As with other Kong products, these toys are durable and can last quite awhile. This toys comes in three sizes and two colors; pink or blue.

Ruffians Rubber Squeaker Toy

This innovative rubber chew toy was designed so there is no choking hazard posed by the squeaker. These toys come in bright colors and fun animal shapes including a fish, chicken, octopus, turtle, bear, and a cat. They are made from 100% natural rubber infused with vanilla extract for extra chewing pleasure.

For more information on each of these great toys as well as product recommendations for other puppy products, read our Complete New Puppy Checklist

Editors note:  Siennabrickroad welcomes the following article by R.Hudon from For Healthy Dogs.com

Your camping list for your dog depends on the where you are going camping and how long you will be camping for. Will you be in a campground with other people and animals? Will your dog be allowed to run loose? Is there danger of wild animals? What are the weather conditions? Will you be hiking to your destination? Where will your dog sleep at night?
Depending on your individual situation the items you need for your dog may vary. Here are the most important camping supplies you will need for your dog in any situation.

Food Container You will need an airtight, water proof storage container that is big enough to hold all the food your dog will need for his camping trip. If your dog eats fresh or raw food, put it in an appropriate container that will fit in your cooler and keep on ice. If your dog’s food is in a can remember to bring a can opener!

Food & Water Measure out your dog’s daily feeding portions times the days you are camping, plus one extra days portion just in case you may need it. Depending on where and how you are camping you are either bringing your own water or there will be water at the campsite. Either way, just remember to always have enough for your canine companion and a container to put it in.

Food and Water Dish If your dog eats out of a ceramic bowl I wouldn’t recommend bringing his dish camping. You can either purchase your dog a travel feeder or travel dishes or just pack a couple big plastic bowls, one for food and one for water. If you have more than one dog, bring one big container they can share water in. Stainless steel bowls are the best bowls for camping as they are durable, lightweight and easy to clean. I would recommend getting the kind with a sturdy base that is not easy to tip.

Collar and Leash Don’t leave the house without this one! This is the second most important thing your dog must have to go camping besides food and water. Your dog is bound to get dirty so it’s best to use a durable, easy to clean leash for camping. You can buy LED dog collars that illuminate in the dark which is a great idea for camping at night with your dog. Make sure your dog is wearing an identification tag on his collar with his name and contact info.

Tie-Out Cable, Long Lead or Rope If you are camping in a public campground you are usually required to have your dogs securely tied up at all times. When we take our dogs camping, we always bring a long tie out cable and secure it to a corkscrew stake strategically placed to minimize barking at fellow campers. If your dogs don’t chew through rope like mine do, then tying them to a tree with some rope attached to their collar works great too. Just make sure it is completely secure and there is no way your dog can escape.

Bags for Clean-Up A must have when camping. You can use plastic grocery bags if you don’t have anything else. If you want to help the environment out you can purchase biodegradable waste bags for your dog’s outdoor clean-up.

Crate or Bed This all depends on your dog’s sleeping arrangements while camping. Some people bring their crates or the bed they have from home if possible. Depending on the size of your dog sometimes that’s not possible. Give your dog his own warm blanket to curl up under if he is sharing a tent with you. You can also buy soft crates that can fold down to almost nothing for easy travel. These crates are a popular item for camping dogs and come in a variety of styles and designs.

Toys Don’t forget toys for your dog’s enjoyment. If your dog will be going in the water make sure you bring water toys such as floatable frisbees or balls. If your dog is able to run around bring some good throw toys if he likes to fetch. Bully sticks are a great for chewing while relaxing by the campfire. If your dog has a favourite toy that you are not worried about getting dirty, wet, or possibly lost, then pack it as well. A fun idea for dogs is to bring bubbles and blow them and let your dog chase them and pop them. Our dogs go nuts for this when we are camping. We buy ‘dog bubbles’ specifically made for dogs. They taste like peanut butter and they last forever.

Raingear If you’re lucky you won’t have to worry about rain but if it does happen it’s nice to be prepared. If your dog is going to be outdoors for a long period of time while camping there are a few things you can do to protect him from the rain. You can buy raincoats especially made for dogs which provide great protection from the rain. You can also buy portable shelters and tents for dogs which are very easily set up and can be used to shelter your dog from the sun and heat as well.

Old Towels In case your dog gets wet and muddy either from swimming or being in the rain, it’s always good to pack a couple of old towels.

Medications If your dog is on any medications remember to put them in his bag.

Insect Repellent If there is a possibility your dog may be bothered by insects while camping, you should bring an insect repellent that is safe for dogs. Do not use human insect spray on your dog. You can buy dog insect repellent or make your own. Clove oil works well as a natural mosquito repellent. Neem oil, citronella and cedar oil also make great insect repellents for dogs.

First Aid Kit for Dogs You can either buy a first aid kit for your dog or you can put together some items and make a basic one for minor emergencies. Find a container (even a large Tupperware would work) and put in some bandaging material such as gauze or roll cotton, gauze pads, tweezers, gauze tape, scissors, wound cleanser or saline solution, hydrocortisone ointment, emergency hot/cold pack and always have an extra blanket handy for emergencies. Depending on where you are camping think of the possible dangers and situations that could arise that might cause your dog to need first aid and try to pack accordingly.

Extras Items for Camping
Brush or Necessary Grooming Items
Warm Jacket or Sweater (if you have a small dog)
Dog Carrier (for small dogs)
Extra Collar & Leash
Life-Jacket
Backpack
Sleeping Bag
Portable Water Bowl (for walks)

Find all the supplies on the Complete Camping List on our Camping Page for Dogs at http://www.forhealthydogs.com

Editors note: Siennabrickroad welcomes the following contribution by R. Hudon from For Healthy Dogs.com

It’s always best to start brushing your dog’s teeth early on when he is still a puppy. If this isn’t the case and your dog is no longer a puppy, just make sure your dog does not have any underlying dental problems that could make brushing his teeth a painful and unpleasant experience.

A great way to start getting your dog used to having his teeth cleaned before actually using a toothbrush is to use dental wipes to clean his teeth. These are made specifically for dogs and although they don’t clean as thorough as a toothbrush they are a a great alternative if your dog will absolutely not allow you to touch his teeth with a toothbrush. They are also very handy during travel.

Now before actually brushing your dogs teeth, make sure your dog approves of the toothpaste flavor by letting him lick some of the toothpaste off the brush. If your dog really likes the toothpaste flavor this is a great way to get him to associate the toothbrush with a ‘good thing.

When you are ready to start using a toothbrush on your dogs teeth, the most important thing is to keep the situation light and positive. Don’t restrain your dog to the point where he is uncomfortable and stressed. Talk in a happy, comforting voice and give constant praise.

 Keep your teeth-brushing sessions short. Don’t try to brush all your dog’s teeth in one sitting. If you can get just a couple teeth done at first, that is great. Every time you brush, do a couple more teeth.

Immediately after you are done brushing your dog’s teeth, make a BIG deal! Praise and treats and maybe throwing his favorite toy will make the next teeth-brushing session a lot easier. If things go smoothly your dog may eventually get excited at the sight of a toothbrush in anticipation of the rewards and excitement that follows.

For a selection of the best toothbrushes, toothpastes, dental wipes and dental care products available for your dog at great prices, check out the dental care page at For Healthy Dogs.com

Nordegg Alberta, me on a 99 Valkyrie Interstate

As my fourth season of riding motorcycles is nearing an end here in Central Alberta, it is hard to imagine a time when I was so terrified of motorcycles it made me physically ill. Riding was not always the pleasure it is today, far from it really.

When the idea of learning to ride was presented to me,  I didn’t really see it as something I wanted to learn. I have always enjoyed drag racing and other sports involving cars; but motorcycles did not appeal to me much. At that time I spent much of my spare time around horses. They were my relaxation and therapy. I also think that part of my reluctance has to do with my false perception at the time of the type of people that rode motorcycles. Yes I know this type of thinking is outdated and uninformed but the image that readily came up in my mind when the word “bikers” was mentioned was negative. My thoughts as I write this article are very different. It occurs to me now that I can add another positive thing to what motorcycles have taught me—don’t pre-judge anyone based on appearances. That statement can be added as a sub-category to “don’t knock it till you tried it.”

When I finally did agree to take the Motorcycle Safety Course in the spring of 2006 I was confident I would do well. “How hard could it be?” I thought. I could ride a bicycle, a horse; drive a manual transmission car and operate a snowmobile and various forms of farm equipment after all. I thought the progression to a motorcycle would be a matter of learning a few new skills and getting used to the wind in my face. I had decided taking the course would, if nothing else, help me to decide if I wanted to pursue the sport any farther. I did balk at the cost of the two day course, somewhere in the neighbourhood of $400, but did agree to give it a try. At the end of two days instruction I did not see any reason I would not leave with license in hand. This was not what happened.

I do not want to go into detail now on what I thought of the course, I have it marked as something to explore in another post sometime in the future, as this is a story in itself. What happened was I crashed. Three times. The first time the instructor told half of us to mount the bikes, without starting the engine, and get pushed from one end of the parking lot to the other by another student. I still don’t quite get the reasoning behind this exercise but I was there to learn. The lady that was assigned to push me decided to take a run at it from behind and knocked me clean off the bike. Later in the day with engines running now, we were instructed to reach a certain speed and apply both brakes as hard as we could. We were assured we would NOT go over the handlebars. They were wrong. The third crash ended with me  tangled in the bike and I was injured beyond scrapes and bruises. I tried my best to shake it off and did manage to get back on and ride another half hour or so but the physical injury was severe enough to require medical attention. It took me many months to completely recover from the damage to my leg. The psychological damage was worse, as I would later discover. For the record I was not the only one to come off my bike that day, but I believe I was the only one to receive injury severe enough to knock me out of the rest of the course.

Buying a Bike

A few weeks later I went shopping for a motorcycle that was going to be my bike but would be shared with my husband until he bought his own the following year. I decided on a new Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom. I almost went with the 1100 model but there was some concern it may have been a bit too big for a beginner. My plan was to heal from my injury and continue riding.

My first bike, me and my dog Zorro.

The Fear Begins to Take Hold

For the rest of the season as I was healing, I ended up being a passenger on that bike more then a rider. Here is where the fear became a problem. Even when my husband went out to ride on his own, I was consumed with thoughts of something happening to him. He purchased a cell phone at my request so he could call me at regular intervals to try and ease my mind. I would get physically sick when I saw him leave. Later I tried riding with him as a passenger hoping I would get used to the bike and have a better understanding of what it was like to ride on my own one day. Those few months included some of the worst times of my life. My fear was overtaking me and I didn’t like what was happening to me emotionally. It was changing me in a negative way and that was not acceptable. I wasn’t even sure why it was affecting me that way.

Being a Passenger

As soon as I would throw my leg over the seat I would take a death hold on the tiny strap provided for the passenger. I used both hands wedged in there and would not move or let go for anything. My shoulders would ache and my head would pound. I would try to relax my grip and let my shoulders down a bit, but in less then 30 seconds I would be in such a tense state that my body would cramp and ache.

Tears would stream down my face but I would not move to wipe them away under my face shield. It would itch and tickle but I was too afraid to let go of my grip on that strap for anything. I said not one word, I did not scream or wriggle my body or make any movement. I sat frozen in fear while he drove, oblivious to my pain. I made sure I was aware of the route we were going to take and at first just agreed to smaller streets and never more then 70 km/h. Every turn made my stomach tense up so bad I would nearly cry out. Most of the time he drove fine, didn’t do anything too sudden, didn’t take the corners too fast or drive too close to other cars. Still the fear was almost unbearable. Later we would discuss how afraid I was and he would ask if there was anything he could do to make it easier for me. He never forced me to go with him but I did truly want to conquer this fear and so I pressed on in spite of the toll it was taking on me. I wanted this, it didn’t make sense, I did not have to do it and it had clearly become a major stress in my life.

The First Steps to Recovery – Preparation

I had purchased my bike with engine guards installed, but quickly replaced them with crash bars that I felt were safer for me and the bike. They were custom made by my husband. I could see  how the bike would be protected if it was on its side. Also my leg was less likely to be caught under the bike if I went down. Knowing this helped—a little. I also purchased leather chaps and a better jacket with padding. In all my years of riding horses I know I could have avoided a lot of bumps and bruises and even broken bones if I had always used proper equipment. So I used this same logic, and also, I decided that if I felt more like I belonged on a bike maybe it would filter through to my brain and give me more confidence. This also helped—a little. I even toyed with the idea of having a drink (liquid courage I have heard it called) to calm me but quickly thought of this as foolish and better to avoid. I did not want anything, not even one drink to impair my senses. (I rarely drink and one drink would probably be too much anyway.) I did however, a few times take half an ativin when I was riding as a passenger only. This may or may not have helped, I am not really sure.

All of the preparation was good and helped to some extent, but it still comes down to me actually getting on the bike and riding it. Because I have always been able to learn from books and from doing things on my own, I decided to ride my bike around my yard on the grass to get used to how it felt. I live on 12 acres and have a lot of lawn to ride on that would enable me to practice and have something soft to fall on. Well, softer then pavement. Riding on grass is difficult and the lumps and bumps and ridges in my acreage lawn could set me off balance easily if I was not careful, especially at slow speeds. I did master some slow speed manoeuvres over time however and did learn to use my clutch and rear brake fairly well. I dropped my bike twice during this time. Both times it was much unexpected and at very low speed. Once, I think I was actually stopped.

Dropping the Bike and Living Through It

The first time was the most upsetting. I was alone and had spent about 30 minutes riding before getting ready to put the bike back in the shop. It was one of those days where everything was going so well that I started to think I might actually be able to pull this off. I was happily looking forward to reporting my progress, and in particular, my tightened turns. I had positioned my self to enter the shop and dismounted to open the large overhead door. Once I could see inside I decided to move just a shade to the left at very low speed, barely moving really, when I lost my balance and toppled over. Just like that. I hit the ground harder then I thought I would have and was shocked to realize I had no time to fix this, it had already happened, it was over. My shiny new bike, the first motor vehicle I had ever purchased new, was on its side. I wanted a do-over! Fortunately my crash bars did their job beautifully and I am thankful to this day I have them. I scrambled up, shut off the fuel and made sure the engine was not running and turned off the key. Then I winced and felt sick seeing my precious motorcycle that I had this love/hate relationship with, down in the grass, disabled. I think I whimpered when I saw the tail light bent over and now running parallel with the bike, I was certain it had to be broken. I had not checked my own body for damage as I was sure I would be reminded of any injury I may have sustained later that evening. I managed to lift the 500 or so pounds back up and get it on the kickstand so I could assess the damage. There was none! There was some grass stuck to the pegs and the tail light, that I was sure was smashed, sprung back into place. Just as, a few minutes earlier, everything changed, everything changed back. I guess I got my do-over. It was ok, I was ok, and the bike lived. I realized that I had believed prior to this that the bike laying on its side for whatever reason was close to the end of the world. It was not; in fact it was hardly an issue. Hmm, I thought, one of my biggest fears was not bad at all in reality; it was much bigger in my own mind. There must be a lesson here.

Perhaps that is when I started to overcome my fears although I did not know it at the time. It was like turning on the light in a darkened room fully expecting all kinds of hideous things to reveal themselves, and then finding there is nothing but the familiar room you left earlier.

The next we rode to a quiet neighbourhood and I spent about 20 minutes on the street. There were no traffic lights and little traffic so I had to pay attention of course, but there was not so much activity that would make me feel overwhelmed.

Experiencing a Bigger Bike

My husband had purchased a Honda Valkyrie Interstate around that time. It was huge and because it is designed for touring, it had a proper seat for the passenger. I felt so secure on the back of this bike I think I only held on with one hand the first day and after that did not feel the need to hang on at all. It has a backrest and the seat kind of wraps around and holds you in, making you feel very secure. This helped a lot and I was starting to calm down. I do however remember going on to a highway for the first time and thought I would be sick. Every single instinct was saying “JUMP”. Of course that is ridiculous and I stayed put, but it was terrifying. Even after I had learned to relax the fear would come back and surprise me from time to time. Now I am happy to report many long rides as a passenger with little or no concern that I would make it home alive and in one piece.

A Recent Trip to Jasper National Park on the Valkyrie

Once I was able to relax and actually enjoy our outings I began to imagine myself in the driver’s seat. When he would shift or brake I would shift and brake in my mind. I would watch the road, squeeze the clutch, slow down or accelerate as though I was operating the bike. I scanned the road looking for traffic and anticipating problem spots. I thought of how to position the bike in the safest place, the safest lane, the safest part of the lane. I reacted when he reacted. I knew and understood the mechanics of riding, now I had to put them to practical use. It started to become second nature to me. During this time, I would take short rides on my own bike but only when I was feeling fresh and confident and I was careful not to get cocky too quickly and take on more then I could handle.

I read the boards on the internet and talked to other women riders, some of whom had to overcome fears in their own journey of learning to ride. It was helpful and encouraging to know others had been where I was, that I wasn’t weird, and that it could be overcome.

I read books, such as

• “The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide to Motorcycling Excellence”

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide to Motorcycling Excellence: Skills, Knowledge, and Strategies for Riding Right (2nd Edition)

Click here to read my review

• “Proficient Motorcycling” by David L. Hough.

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well

Click here to read my review

I also purchased the DVD

• “Ride Like A Pro IV” by Jerry Motorman Palladino.

How To Ride Like A Pro

All of these publications are highly recommended for anyone who sits a motorcycle, in my opinion. They helped me to think like a professional and keep myself out of trouble.

I was becoming a biker. I had a thirst for knowledge and a strong desire to not just ride a motorcycle but ride well.

The last thing I will credit with helping me is positive thought. I have been around animals most of my life and trained many dogs, horses and parrots. Cesar Millan and his National Geographic program “The Dog Whisperer” reminded me how positive thought, or energy as Cesar refers to it, can help not only in relationships with dogs, but in life as well. When you learn to lead a pack, you learn to discipline yourself, see clearer and focus on your goals. Its not mystical or new age, its just life and how you choose to walk (or ride) through it. All of these things, the focus, the clarity and leadership are all qualities you want to possess when riding a motorcycle. I also recommend looking into the things Cesar teaches especially if you are a dog owner. It’s not about training a dog to sit; it’s about how you see yourself and the image you project. When I was an active rider on horses I learned how to “see” in a different way that helped me immensely. I would visualize what I wanted to achieve as an aid to using my mind and body to further my goals.

I AM a Biker

I am happy to say that I now ride regularly. I can handle downtown traffic, parking, hills, highways, mountains and tricky parking lots. I have ridden on pavement, gravel and sand, in the rain and during extreme heat. I am not saying nothing bad will ever happen to me, but I am on the right track. I no longer sweat and get sick in anticipation of a ride. Quite the opposite, I ride to relax, to enjoy, to feel connected to life. I always pause to say a prayer before I ride to ask for focus and protection and to give thanks for the day and that I am able to enjoy my life. Just like I check my equipment before I ride, I also check my mental state so I don’t become complacent. I love the sport and am happy to report I am shopping for my next bike, something bigger and I am also considering expanding my horizons into the world of sport bikes.

If you have fear there is hope if you really want to conquer it. I feel proud I faced the fear and now it is behind me, it has given me confidence in riding and in life. Now that I have conquered the fear I can hope I can continue to learn something with every ride.

Having fun at the 2009 Poker Run for the Stollery Children's Hospital