The key is in the start position, you have fuel and it is turned on, the kill switch is in the ON position, the transmission is in neutral and the kickstand is down. (Some bikes may have a different start sequence but you know how to start your bike.)  So with the things easiest to fix out of the way, you decide to check the battery. Before you try to boost or recharge you should check the connections to see if they need tightening or cleaning. 

If you determine the battery needs charging, check your owners manual for the proper procedure for your type of battery.  (see the section on identifying your battery in the article Battery Maintenance).

The decision to jump start your bike is a judgement call.  It is usually not recommended because of the possibility of damaging one or both vehicles.  This can be a costly mistake because microprocessors are sensitive and a power spike such as you would receive during a boost could fry it as well as other things in your electrical system.  Know what you are doing and be cautious so you don't injure yourself as well. With that in mind, if you still want to do it, this is HOW you do it.  Make sure you do it in order.

1. Position both vehicles close enough for the cables to reach but not touching each other.
2. Both vehicles should be turned off. Take the key out of the boost vehicle to be sure. 
3. Get out your jumper cables and connect the positive (+) which is usually red to the good battery's positive terminal.
4. Connect the positive cable to the positive terminal on the dead battery. Don't let the clamps touch each other or any metal surface to avoid electric shock.
5. Connect the negative cable (-) usually black to the good battery's negative terminal.
6. Connect the last cable (negative -) to a metal part of the bike frame (not chrome). This may spark.  The reason you clamp to the frame and not the negative terminal on the battery is to avoid spark near the battery.
7. Start your motorcycle.
8. Disconnect the cables in reverse order, again be careful not to touch them to each other or any metal. 

If you can't remember this sequence, write it on a card and maybe slip it in with your bike's paperwork to have it handy in case you are stranded and need a boost.

The battery on my motorcycle is hidden behind a cover and because it has never caused me any trouble I tend to forget about it. I like to think I am pro-active so I am researching motorcycle batteries in this article to find out the following:

What type of batteries are available and what is the latest technology?

What is the difference between AGM, Gel, Lithium Ion and LiFePO4?

How and why should a battery maintainer be used?

Type of Batteries Used in Motorcycles

Wet Lead Acid

There is more then one type of battery being used in motorcycles today. The oldest, the wet lead acid type that requires checking and filling to maintain it, may still be in use in some applications but it has made way for newand better technology for some time now.

Gel Cell

The next type is called a Gel Cell (also lead acid) that has a thickener added to the liquid to make it a gel and is a sealed battery. They need to be charged with a trickle charger rather then a quick charger.

AGM

The most commonly used battery is called AGM or Absorbed Glass Mat. This is also a sealed lead acid battery and it is maintenance free (meaning you never have to worry about checking water levels). Being sealed you can also install it in any position, on it’s side or end and it isn’t vented. The acid is absorbed into glass mat separators which are sandwiched between the lead plates, so they will not leak and corrode and damage other surfaces on the bike. There is also little chance of hydrogen gas explosion. They have more CCA (cold crank amps) then wet batteries. AGM batteries are more heat and vibration resistant and therefore reduce failures in motorcycles. They have a longer shelf life, so it can sit for extended periods of time without constant monitoring. They discharge at a rate of about 2-3% per month.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Cells

In my research I also discovered something called a Ballistic Performance Components Battery that is using a new technology that is very interesting. It uses Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) cells. They are reported to be low cost, non-toxic, and lightweight. You can read more by clicking on the above link or by clicking here for their FAQ page.

They are up to 80% smaller then a stock battery and up to 10 lbs lighter. They are also completely dry and can be mounted in any position. They are NON-TOXIC and recyclable. No special charger is required and only looses 10% of its charge in one year of non-use.

Lithium Ion

If you want to upgrade to lithium ion you can check out this link but they are expensive. This new battery replaces the existing lead/acid battery, and is based on lithium-ion technology. I like that these weigh less, up to 80%. They recharge within 5 minutes of starting the engine. They take up less space using about 1/3 the space of the older batteries. The service life is longer, more then 5 years.

 Numbers that Identify a Battery

The numbers begin with 6 or 12N for conventional batteries.  Factory sealed batteries start with YTZ – CT – GT – CTZ – GTZ – and YT.  The first set of numbers represents the voltage and the first set of letters identify the manufacturer.

Battery Maintainers

Battery Tender and BatteryMINDer  are two brand names for products that are used to maintain your battery and keep it properly charged while being stored or idle.  They may look like a trickle charger but they are much different. Battery maintainers use solid state circuitry to monitor the battery state of charge and keep it at the optimum level.  At the end of the regular charger cycle, the battery maintainer will automatically switch its output voltage to a safe, storage level that eliminates the need to constantly check on the conditions of the battery.  So, you can leave it connected to the battery for weeks or months without over charging and damaging it.

Sulphation

If the battery is allowed to discharge, a condition known as sulphation occurs when crystals of sulfuric acid form on the battery's storage plates.  In time as they build up they create a barrier to proper charging and discharging. The battery becomes less reliable as a result and will take longer to charge and will produce less cranking amps and running time. The heat within the battery increases as well and accelerates the breakdown of active storage plate material. A battery that would normally last 5 plus years may need to be replaced within a year or two if this occurs.  All this can be avoided by using a battery maintainer.

Setting the valve clearance is recommended (according to the Honda Maintenance Schedule) every 12,000 miles (19,200 kms) on this motorcycle. I wanted to learn how to do this myself instead of paying the dealer to do it for me.

I used the Honda Service Manual as a reference to guide me through the process.

In a previous post I wrote about how we built a stand to elevate the bike and make working on it much easier. (Building A Space Saving Lift for Motorcycles) So with the bike secured, with the engine cold and the transmission in neutral,  I assembled my tools and got started. 

Remove the Left and Right Rear Cylinder Head Cover

 

Once the rear cylinder head cover and gasket is removed on both sides you can continue to the cylinder head cover

Remove the Cylinder Head Covers

Remove the rubber plugs from the center of the valve cover bolts.

Remove the six bolts with a 6 mm hex socket.

There is a plug and wires under the front of the cover that run up the right side that need to be loosened and moved out of the way before the cover will come off. The plug is held in place with a small screw over the cap.

The left cover is unobstructed and came off easily.   

Remove the Spark Plugs

This is a good time to remove the spark plugs and examine and re gap them if necessary.  With the spark plugs removed it is also easier to crank the engine and set the valve clearance.

This is a fairly easy process and well worth your time since you have access to the plugs. 

Remove the rubber caps and clean around the spark plug base and be sure there is no debris that will enter the combustion chamber.

Remove each spark plug with a spark plug wrench and note what cylinder they came from in case the plug is fouled you will have this information to further investigate what may be the cause.

Examine each plug gap and general condition.  Use a feeler gauge to check the gap.  The owners manual calls for  0.8 – 0.9 mm (0.031 – 0.035 in)

If you have to adjust the gap, carefully bend the electrode to the desired gap.

To prevent crossthreading, thread each plug by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench.  The manual torque tolerance is 16 N m (1.6 kgf m, 12 lbf ft)

Reconnect the spark plug caps and you are done. 

note: leave the plugs out until you have set the valve clearances because it will be easier to crank the engine.  I have done my best to accurately provide the tolerance and other specs from the owners manual but I suggest you double check any critical information yourself before proceeding.

Remove the Timing Cover

Remove the three bolts on the timing cover with a 5 mm hex socket.

Rotate the crankshaft with a 17 mm socket counterclockwise and align the T 1.2 mark on the drive pulley guide plate with the index mark on the timing belt cover.

Make sure the No. 1 piston which is on the right side to the front of the bike is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke. An easy way to check this is to feel if there is a slight wiggle in the intake and exhaust valves. (intake valves are on top and exhaust valves on the bottom)  If not the compression stroke, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 360 degrees  (1 full turn) and align the T 1.2 mark with the index mark.

Right Side front to back is then 1 – 3 – 5 and the left front to back is 2 – 4 – 6

 Setting the Valve Clearances

Measure the No. 1 cylinder valve clearance by inserting a feeler gauge between the valve stem and adjusting screw.

Valve Clearances

Intake: 0.15 mm (0.006 in)

Exhaust:  0.22 mm (0.009 in)

Adjust by loosening the lock nut with a 10 mm wrench and use a screwdriver to adjust the screw until there is a slight drag on the feeler gauge.

Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut. 

Torque:  23 N m (2.3 kgf m, 17 lbf ft)

Recheck the valve clearance.

Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees and align the T5.6 mark with the index mark.

Check and adjust the No. 5 cylinder valve clearance.

Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees and align the T1.2 mark with the index mark.

Check and adjust the No. 2 cylinder valve clearance.

Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees and align the T3.4 mark with the index mark.

Check and adjust the No. 3 cylinder valve clearance.

Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees and align the T5.6 mark with the index mark.

Check and adjust the No. 6 cylinder valve clearance.

Replace the timing cover making sure the O ring is in place.

Replace the cylinder gaskets and covers. 

Run the engine and watch for any leaks. 

And your done!

This sidewall damage is what happens with a blowout.  

It is very often caused by riding on under inflated tires.

It is bad enough when it happens to a car tire, but on a motorcycle, it can literally be the difference between life and death.

I have always been concerned about tire pressure, and everyone else should be as well.  Last summer a couple of things happened that made me take more notice of my tires, and take it more seriously. 

I was out riding one night on an unusually hot evening with another rider.  Earlier in the year he had discovered a nail in his rear tire that was causing a slow leak.  Fortunately he is very good at checking his bike regularly, a good practice that I have to mirror.  I can be a bit forgetful or plain lazy sometimes and so this is why I am looking at things to help me be safer. I think things like that catch up to a person sooner or later, and usually with unpleasant and costly consequences.  He repaired his tire with a plug kit himself and carefully watched it as he continued to ride.  We had talked to several people and it seemed to be about 50/50 whether or not to repair or replace it. Err on the side of caution is probably the way I would go. Just grimace and hand over my credit card for a new tire.  I found that tire shops won't fix a motorcycle tire, probably for fear of liability, and rightly so. So watching his bike, knowing he had a plugged tire made me nervous, but it seemed to have done the trick and he had no problems.  Of course all of this is relative to the amount of damage the nail caused, where it was on the tire surface, and the skill of the person repairing it. I just picture myself crashing because of a blown tire and think how cheap a few hundred bucks would seem to me then.

We stopped for a break on the way home and when we returned to our bikes and began riding out of the parking lot he discovered his rear tire going flat fast. At first we thought it was the plug repair he had done but on closer inspection this was not the case. Someone had stabbed the sidewall with a knife to vandalize the bike.  We ended up repairing it with an inflation/sealant kit and it held long enough to get the bike home. 

The tire was trashed because of the site of the puncture, not in the tread but in the sidewall.  I am told even if this were a car tire it would not be able to be repaired.  The emergency seal and inflate kit worked great and saved us a tow bill but it is by no means more then a very temporary fix. We took the bike a short distance at lower speed and watched carefully so that if the temporary repair failed we would not end up with a blow out as pictured above. The emergency repair kit is not to be confused with another product that is installed inside the tire BEFORE a puncture happens.  I have recently purchased and will be installing a product called Ride-On that is very different and I am anxious to write a review on it soon.  I think it is a great invention that will most definitely keep motorcycle riders safer.  Check back for my review and information on where you can get it coming soon.

There were a lot of bikes out that night because of the hot weather and the next morning I read about a couple killed when they blew a tire on the highway and both went into the ditch on the highway in our neighborhood.  Now if that isn't a wake up call I don't know what is! So, I started researching how I could be as safe as possible.  Enter technology. 

TPMS – Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems

I was familiar with the tire pressure monitoring systems on cars and wanted to look for a similar product for motorcycles.  The first one that I was interested in was called TireGard Wireless TPMS  It caught my eye because it is wireless but then again aren't they all? On closer look it is what I was looking for, easy to install and easy to read, but there are drawbacks that concern me.  I have not tested this product myself but I am writing about what my research revealed.  The wonderful thing about his product is that you simply remove your valve stem caps, put batteries in the new caps, screw them into place, put a battery in the monitor and turn it on and set it to your preferences .  Nothing to it.  You simply press a button on the key fob that you carry in your pocket and it gives you the current pressure on the front and rear tires.  Reports from several sources say it is very accurate within .5lbs of pressure and thats acceptable to me. It also has a vibrating alarm and will flash a warning if the tire falls below limits you set yourself. It also monitors the temperature of your tires. Over heating is a concern but that is often caused by low pressure so this part might be redundant but it is an added feature. 

Now the bad part. 

During my research I discovered that there were concerns about installing the caps on rubber valve stems because the added weight causes the stem to bend during higher speeds and will eventually cause damage that would cause the tire to loose air quickly. I didn't see any actual documentation but users were concerned and it is something I need to think about.  It was suggested that it only be installed on tires with metal valve stems.  I have a support on mine so I think it would be fine.  A friend of mine looked at this unit for a VTX 1300 and said that because of the way the valve stem comes out on the bike it would not accomodate a larger valve cap. So, you would have to go take a look at your setup and decide if you think it would fit your bike.

Other comments were about the high price.  I noted that it was $210 and is on sale now for about $150.  I did not think the price was too much if it works well.  But thats all a matter of opinion.  Perhaps if you only use it to check tire pressure and not monitor it, then I would agree its pricey but I wanted to use it while I am riding to alert me of any danger on the road so I have time to respond. 

Other complaints were that they wanted a handlebar mount for the monitor.  I don't agree.  Yes, its useless if its in your pocket where you cannot hear it, see it, or feel the vibrating alarm but I would plan to put it under my jacket and close to my body so it would alert me by alarm.  Depending on if it would fit or not, I would also consider mounting it inside my helmet so I could hear it on the road.  I havent examined this product yet so this is just an idea.

All things considered I like this and if it works as reported I think it would be an added piece of security for me and my bike. But there are other options as follows:

Flag Type Monitoring Systems 

This type of monitor is probably the simplest and cheapest monitoring system.  Like the above system, you just unscrew your existing valve caps and screw the replacements on.  You purchase a set that is set to the pressure you require and is not adjustable.  There is a little indicator that comes out as the tire pressure decreases and is colored yellow when it has dropped by 3 psi and when the red band is exposed it has dropped by 6 psi.  

The good part is they are cheap and easy to install and can transfer easily to another bike. 

The bad part is that they cannot warn you if you are riding because you have to see them.  Also, they don't indicate a leak until it has lost at least 3 psi.  They are not suitable for sportbikes.

Wheel Mounted Systems

The last system I looked at was the wheel mounted system.  This can be used on motorcycles but it is more commonly seen on four or more wheeled vehicles.  This would be excellent on transport trucks and passenger vehicles and trailers. 

This is mounted internally on the wheel and some have an aerial that is also mounted on the exterior of the vehicle and there is a monitor installed inside the vehicle.  Because of the more difficult and costly install of removing each tire and mounting it on the wheel, I will pass on this system in favor of the external wireless sets.  If the battery needs replacing it means removing the wheel and tire and that is just not cost effective enough for me to be interested. 

 How Old Are Your Tires and Why is it Important?

It is difficult to say how old your tires are by just a visible inspection unless you know how to read this simple code. Prior to the year 2000 tires were stamped with a 3 digit code.

The three digits indicate week and year of manufacture.  The first two digits are the week and the last number indicates the year.  This tire was on a year 2000 model motorcycle so I will assume its date of manufacture was the 21st week of 1999.

Starting in the year 2000 the system uses a 4 digit code which makes more sense.  In this example it shows this tire was made in the 5th week of 2006 which is the same year the bike was made.

The reason the age of the tire is important is because rubber degrades over time and the way it was stored is a factor.  If it has been stored in a hot warehouse or in direct sunlight it causes a process known as outgassing as the tire heats and cools down. This will make the tire less pliable and even brittle.  It will not grip the road the same as a fresh tire. So the fresher the better. 

A  Handy Little Gadget for Inspecting Tires

I recently came across this gadget that is so simple to use and so handy.  Inspecting your tires can be difficult because to properly look at all the surfaces means you have to move the tires.  I would have to move my bike several times to make sure I was looking at the all the places I need to see when looking for nails or other damage. 

It is easy to roll the bike on to it and kickstand it and get off and turn the wheel.  It works well for both front and rear tires.  I do put a block under my kickstand so that the bike stands more upright when using it.  As you can see in the picture it is small and can be stored in a drawer or hang it on the wall like I do and use it as part of your regular maintenance. 

Final Thoughts

I like the first TPMS I researched and I am seriously thinking of purchasing it soon.  I have more then one bike and its easy to switch from one to the other, its accurate according to product documentation and user testimonials, its easy to read and I can wear the monitor under my jacket and stop if I feel the vibrating alarm.  I will add my comments here first hand once I own one.

And to get you off the road when you do discover a flat I recommend one of the many emergency repair kits on the market such as the one shown below.

Drive safe, be aware of potential problems and be prepared.  It may pay off big time for you one day.

An Emergency Repair Kit  

The tire sealant and inflation kit we carried worked very well and is common to use in cars but this is a band-aid at best and can maybe get you home or the nearest repair shop. It worked for us but we only had a short way to go and once the bike was back in our shop, the tire was replaced with a new one.  I will still carry one on trips to help me out like it did that night, but by no means would I ride more then a few miles on a tire containing it.

 I am installing Ride-On Tire Sealant and Protection System.  This looks very promising and yet another safety tool that I think can save lives.  Keep in touch for more as soon as I test it.

Last summer I purchased a camera that I could mount on my helmet or handlebars to record my motorcycle trips.  

Winter is long where I live and I wanted to be able to watch my summer adventures on the big screen, while the bike was put away and there was two feet of snow on my porch.

The High Definition  Motorsports HERO

I became interested in these incredible pieces of technology when a friend burned a DVD of a trip to Utah riding dirt bikes.  The quality really impressed me, especially how smooth the video was even on a dirt bike going over very rough ground.  I never go off road–well not on purpose, so I was sure I would be happy with the results on a smooth highway.  

If you have never used a helmet cam before there is a bit to learn.  I did have some complaints about this camera and software but the bottom line is that I would buy it again.  I am glad I waited for the HD 1080 version because once I saw the results on my widescreen TV,  I was anxious to record my own trips.  I had problems with the mounting hardware and the software leaves something to be desired. Both of these things hopefully will be improved in the future.  On the other hand, there are some really cool features too, like the single photo options that takes stills every 2, 5, 10, 30 or 60 seconds, as well as the 10 second timer if you want to take a picture of yourself.  I do think the good out-weighs the bad and I will give this camera a thumbs up.  

Choosing the Right Package

I ended up choosing the Go Pro HD Hero Camera. There are four packages to choose from with the HD Go Pro Hero.  They are the HD Helmet Hero, the HD Motosports Hero, the HD Hero Naked and the HD Surf Hero.  The camera is the same in all packages, so it comes down to the mounting hardware that you require depending on how you plan to use it.  

I picked the Motorsports Package with the Mega Pack because I thought it was the best value because I wanted the extra battery and the larger SDHC memory card.  I bought it online at the Canadian Point of View Cameras .

What You Get

(this is the HD Motorsports Hero with the MegaPack)

Right out of the box you have everything you need to use the camera right away, however I am glad I purchased the MegaPack because it has the extra battery because I don't have my bike wired to charge the battery on the road.  The MegaPack  also has the larger memory card which I would recommend.  With prices dropping on memory cards, I will purchase another one for longer trips because I like to use the highest resolution HD format for recording. So far I used it on day trips and was able to get to my computer to transfer the data and clear the card for the next trip.  

The Good

♦ You have the following resolution choices: 1080p, 960p, and 720p HD resolutions record at 30 frames per second (60 fps in 720p)  I like using the 1080p setting because it gives me the highest quality video, but if my memory card is getting full I can switch to the smaller resolution if needed.  Also, the 60 fps setting in 720p is great if you plan to watch your footage in slow motion.  I have even tried software to extract stills in all video modes by going frame by frame and it worked quite well. 

♦ Record up to 2.5 hours on a single charge and up to 9 hours total if you have a  32GB SD card 

♦ The sound is good, wind noise is minimal and you can hear the sound of the bike.  There was a rattle on one of our bikes that it picked up and I had to mute the sound or put music on the track but that was a bike problem.  On the other bikes the sound was good.

♦ The camera can also shoot automatic 5MP photos at 2/5/10/30 and 60 second intervals. I really liked this feature, I tried it once at the lower resolution setting which produces some distortion as you can see but for these city shots I thought it was kind of a nice effect.  There is no distortion if I used the higher resolution mode. 

The pictures were clear and sharp when enlarged to 16 x 20.  I haven't tried larger sizes yet.  You can see some of the images I took by clicking here and going to the SBR Gallery.

♦ Replacement housings and lens kits are available.  This is essential in my opinion and they are reasonably priced.  I can see how over time these things are going to become pitted or scratched because of the elements.  I am going to order them now so I have them on hand if I do need them.

♦ You can delete the last file, all the files or format the card from the camera. This is handy if you forgot to delete files after transferring them to your computer or if you want to free up some memory. 

♦ Optional Expansion BacPacs.  This was not available when I purchased my camera but are promised soon.  I am anxious to see the added features this will provide.  The port for these pacs is already on the camera. 

♦ The Rechargeable Lithium-Ion battery has a built in battery warmer. It can be charged to 80% capacity in one hour when plugged into a USB compatible wall or car charger that is included. The battery also stays warm when used in cold weather.  I only use it on my bike but I can see how it would be great on a snowmobile as well.  You can also run the camera while charging if you choose to mount it on the dash of your car. 

♦ The price, in my opinion was reasonable for the high quality it is capable of producing.  As I said earlier I would recommend the camera and I would buy it again. I can say I am a fan. 

The Bad

♦ I did not like the mounting hardware and had to adapt what was in the package to fit my handlebars and the one mount I used on the fairing of another motorcycle.  I would like to see better quality and adjustability.  I did not try the helmet mount or the suction cup mounts for my car yet. 

♦ The software was another complaint.  The ease of use can be improved.  It is a bit confusing trying understand the small status display on the front of the camera.  I made some mistakes during my first test runs but I am getting the hang of it over time.  The larger problem was when I transferred the data on the SD card to my computer.  There was no mention of the SOS mode in the documentation that came with the camera so I had to contact Customer Service for more information.  SOS saves a file that was somehow corrupted before you transfer it to the computer.  I found it was confusing and easily missed.  If you don't use it before transferring the data to the computer for viewing, the file is not repairable and cannot be viewed.  I have tried numerous third party utilities to try to repair the files that are corrupted and have been unsuccessful as of this posting.  Customer Service was prompt in answering my email regarding this problem but had no solution other then to test my SD card to make sure it was functioning properly.  It is possible to upgrade the firmware on the camera so I am hoping this will be one of the future fixes.  

♦ There is no LCD screen on the back to preview your recordings.  This is one of the things they will be offering with the expansion Expansion BacPacs, and that is something I will want to try, however, I think you may need to also purchase a larger housing to accommodate the change.

Overall I have to say this was a good purchase and I find it very valuable.  I still carry my little pocket digital camera to take pictures off the bike but for the purpose it was intended this Go Pro HD Hero cannot be beat.  I even use it occasionally in my car.  

The Go Pro has some sample video you can watch to see for yourself.  My experience in my own videos is just as clean and clear as shown in their samples.  I really enjoy watching my trips, and I notice a lot of things I may have missed the first time.  Its a great toy at a good price and I encourage anyone to give it a try, you won't be disappointed. 

Working on a motorcycle can be difficult when it is sitting on the ground.  To solve this problem, instead of buying a hydraulic lift, we built this stand and used a chain hoist to lift the bike into place.

List of Materials

• 2 – 24 inch slings (28 inches to end of D Rings
• 1 – 3/4 inch clevis
• 1 – 1/2 inch clevis
• 4 – 3/8 inch clevis
• 1 – 3/8 x 3 x 28 inch flat iron
• 1 Hoist
• 1 Table 24 x 24 x 24 inch made of 1/4 inch plate with 3 inch pipe legs that is bolted to the floor.

Most of the materials were purchased at the hardware store except the table and flat iron that was found at a scrap yard.  The flat bar as pictured here also had holes drilled into it to attach the clevis.

Preparing the Bike for the Lift

For the bike we were working on, a Honda Valkyrie, we had to remove the seat to expose one part of the frame where we wanted to attach the sling. Of course every bike is different so you have to locate the proper place to position the slings. 

Here is where we threaded the sling through the left side under the frame just in front of the gas tank.  It took a little maneuvering to get the D-ring through but it did fit. 

View from the right side of the bike.

Next the large clevis was bolted to the flat iron and hung on the hoist.

A clevis was attached to each end of the flat iron.  A 12" chain was also attached to the left side to keep the flat iron more level with the bike.  Both ends were then attached to the D-Rings on the slings and we slowly took up the slack making sure nothing was twisted or rubbing on anything that would get scratched.  

We then lifted the bike off the ground with the air hoist and carefully positioned it a few inches above the table.  The table was bolted to the concrete floor before we started.  A few blocks were placed carefully to make sure the bike had a solid platform to sit on.  This was a two person job with one slowly lowering the bike and the other guiding it to the perfect position.  With the weight of the bike on the blocks we left the hoist with out slack as an added safety measure.  

The Project Finished

The bike is now solid.  It will stay attached to the hoist for added safety and we added one more tie down strap to ensure it would not move when working.  This makes it so much easier to inspect and work on the bike.  I am anxious to get the wheels off and give them a good clean and polish.  The table does not take up much room and we just free it from the floor and store it under a bench when it isn't needed. 

Working with something this heavy can be dangerous and this post is intended to show you how we made a lift and maybe give you some ideas.  Please use your own best judgement.

I may have had a bit of bad timing when I decided to take off my stock pipes and install after-market exhaust.  This was because of a recent noise by-law that came into effect  on the same weekend and would be enforced in the city I ride in frequently.

 (If you are interested in the by-law you can read a short article about it here… http://www.torontosun.com/news/canada/2010/06/10/14334801.html)   

It was really kind of a no-brainer, the price was right because I bought them used.  They were in pretty good condition and would look good after a bit of cleaning up.  They also were going to reduce the weight of my bike which is a concern for me being a smaller rider on a big bike.  They should improve performance and, well, I think they look good and hoped they would sound as good.  The man I bought them from described the sound to me as a Corvette on steroids.  Not sure just how that translates but I thought they would sound pretty good.  

Two Brothers Racing

One of the round clamps had some damage to the insulator that the clamp sits in so I contracted Two Brothers Racing to see if I could order the part.  After visiting their website www.twobros.com I could not find my pipes.  They have a Customer Service form you can use to ask questions so I gave it a try.  I noted they say they are dedicated to having the BEST customer service so I would find out if that was true too.  Within two minutes I had someone email me back asking for more details.  I sent a picture of the pipes and they identified them as Valkyrie Six into Two Slash Cut Exhaust.  Unfortunately they have not made them for a few years and had none left in stock and no parts.  After explaining what I needed, Larry found out that they use the same clamp on another exhaust system and provided me with the name of the clamp I needed and their toll free number so I could order direct.  After thanking him for his help he said he wasn't even in Customer Service and when I call they will be sure to be there to help me out.  So, my first experience with this company is very favorable.  I like the quality of the product and just as important to me is the Customer Care.  They have a lot of other products in their catalog and I am sure I can find lots of things for my projects from them.  

Ok, time to take off the stock set of pipes which I will store carefully in my shop in case the noise bylaw forces me to return the bike to original exhaust.  I am hoping that even if I am over the acceptable level, if I drive conservatively and stay out of trouble they may ignore me.  We will see.  

Comparing the Stock and TBR Pipes Side by Side

My stock pipes weighed in at 44 lbs (22 lbs per side) and the TBR's were exactly half that.  I knew they were lighter but I was happy to see just how much lighter.  So my savings is 11 lbs per side for a total of 22 lbs.

The top pipes are the Two Brothers and the bottom is the stock pipes.  I like the color of the headers on the Two Brothers Pipes.  They are not like this out of the box but change after a few heat cycles.  This is said to be a normal characteristic of high quality stainless steel.

The diameter of the after-market pipes is noticeably larger then stock.

Rear view, TBR obviously on the left.  Another big difference.

This photo shows the crossover which is not present on the stock pipes.  

The gaskets on the stock set were used in the install of the after-market pipes.  The carbs were not re-jetted and the stock air filter remained.  In the installation instructions the manufacturer recommends doing it this way.  After firing it up for the first time and taking a test ride I was very pleased with the look and the sound.  Louder then stock, but the stock pipes are VERY quiet so I didn't see this as a problem.  I really like the low throaty sound the bike produces now.  It also felt like it had a bit more power but the bike had not been on the dyno before or after so I have no documentation to back that up.  

The finished look, still needs some polishing and cleaning but I am anxious to go for a ride. 

You can read the detailed installation instructions from the manufacturer here http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Install_Inst/Hon_Valkyrie_6-into2-Canister_Instructions.pdf

The Valkyrie Tour as Purchased

I purchased a Honda Valkyrie last spring, it’s my dream bike.  It is also too high, too wide and too heavy for me. I am barely 5’5″ tall and have a 32″ inseam and I weigh 135 lbs.  I can ride it, but it really is overall too big for me and I need to do some customizing in order to make it safer and more comfortable for me.

 It was love at first sight the day I saw my first Valkyrie standard in 2007.  I couldn’t stop looking at it and even though I was timid, I had to ask if I could sit on it.  It was HUGE and obviously made for a rider of much larger strength and stature then myself.  I felt about the size of a peanut perched on this monster. I had to push myself forward on the seat to reach the handlebars and, partly because of the size and position of the six cylinder engine i was on my toes to reach the ground.  I know there are now bigger bikes, but this to me was so large it intimidated, and excited me at the same time.  It wasn’t even running and I could feel the potential power and thought of how it must feel to be able to manage such a machine.  The Tour model, dry is 714 lbs and there is still a 5.3 gallon gas tank to fill as well as coolant and oil.  So I think if you add it up its in the range of 780 lbs.  I was so disappointed, but it was much to big, so I put it out of my mind that I could ever own and ride this particular model.  I wasn’t even looking for a motorcycle at the time, I was happy with my Yamaha V-Star 650..but I always had it in my mind that it would be great if I could. 

Maybe it IS Possible

I thought about it a lot over time and slowly started to think that maybe, just maybe I could make it work.  I researched other women with Valkyrie’s and did find one that was going through the challenge of fitting it as well but there were not many out there.  Then I bought the DVD “Ride Like A Pro IV” by Jerry Palladino.  (I recommend this DVD to all riders and you can get more information by clicking the link.)  In this instructional video it features women of small stature handling large bikes.  It gave a few tips on making the bike fit the rider better but it was the focus of the DVD to teach riding skills. 

Lower and Lighten

Then, I happened to see a Valkyrie advertised for sale a few hundred miles from my home.  It was exactly what I wanted, at the right price, so I went out and bought it. Once I got the bike home, the first thing I did was remove everything that could be removed to reduce the weight.  The windshield was first which was fairly easy to do.  If you look at the picture above, the previous owner had a toolbag on the front of the handlebars that I took off because I think it obstructs airflow and it was ugly.  The rear seat and the homemade backrest was removed as well as the luggage rack.  Much of this is practical equipment and I don’t mind having it, but I wanted to lighten the bike.  The nice thing is that I can change the look of the bike and store the components to reinstall later if I want.  Then the hard bags and frames went and I started detailing and thinking about what I was going to do next.

Lowering Kits

Prior to purchasing the bike I was told by my Honda dealership’s parts department that it is easy and cheap to lower the bike.  I had read about lowering other bikes and didn’t look for parts for the Valkyrie, but assumed it would not be too hard.  Don’t assume!  I searched and searched and to this day I cannot find spacers to lower this particular bike. Other big cruisers? Yes, but not the Valkyrie.  I was also concerned about lowering the height of the bike too much because the engineers that designed the bike made it that height for a reason. 

( note: I recently discovered a lowering kit for the Goldwing and I am trying to figure out if it will work on my Valkyrie.)

Shorter Shocks

So the first thing I tried was softening the shocks, which I felt would not cause any problems because I am riding solo, I am fairly light and don’t have any cargo or even bags on the rear of the bike.  The shocks on my bike were stock.  The settings is from 1 – 5 and there is a tool in the tool pouch under the seat that aids in turning the cam to lower or raise the shocks.  I put it on the lowest setting and tried it.  It didn’t seem to really make much difference so I went back to my computer to find out if I could install shorter shocks.

I went to http://www.progressivesuspension.com/ and ordered the shortest shocks I could find to fit .They have a really well designed website and if you click on “What Fits My Ride”  it is very convenient to see only the products that fit your particular model. I ordered the 412 Series 11.5 inches, which is the shortest shock they have that would theoretically lower the bike by about 1 – 1.5 inches. 

The Longer Stock Shock

 The Shorter Progressive Shock

The installation of the shorter shocks was very straight-forward and easy to do.  It did make a difference in the height of the back of the bike but I will need to lower the forks to even it out.  That is something I have to research more and may attempt it this winter. If you look at the pictures you can see they are much different looking and I am very pleased with how they make my bike look. I didn’t want the all chrome because I think this bike has plenty of chrome already.  You can also see the black rear crash bars my husband made for me.  This helps me with confidence and turned out to be a very good decision because I did drop the bike turning off of a highway. (A bit more about that is here:  Learning to Ride A Bigger Bike. Only thing hurt was some scratches to the bar and my pride.

Lighter Pipes

I installed a set of Two Brothers Pipes that saved me 11 lbs per side for a total of 22 lbs.  They increase performance as well so that is a bonus, but they are a bit noisier which is a problems since this summer they passed a noise bylaw for motorcycles in the city I ride in.  Thats another story.  Here is how they look.  You can read more about the install here:      Installing TBR Pipes on a Valkyrie.

Lower the Seat Height

The seat on the Valkyrie is very easy to remove with a turn of a keylock and simply lifting it out.  The seat height is not adjustable so my next step was to find a lower seat.  The previous owner of this bike had altered the stock seat and I wanted a new one anyway.  After researching on the internet I decided on a low-rider from Ultimate Seats.  They claimed it would lower my height about one inch.  It did not, in fact it raised the overall height.  I discovered later that they had at some time changed the design of the seat and that may have been true in the earlier models but not with the model they sent me.  I liked the seat if it would have been lower, the quality and finish was very nice but, because my main objective is to lower the seat height, it was of no use to me and I sent it back.  I spoke to their Customer Service and they agreed to refund my money but i had to pay to ship it back which cost me $50 and I wasn’t pleased with that but I suppose that is the cost of doing business. 

I did manage to find a used Ultimate Seat that was not in great condition but I bought it for $20 and I am using it for now until I find a better solution. It is very old and probably the original design that is a bit lower. I do like how it fits me, so I will try to have it reupholstered.  I took the old stock seat apart and stripped it down to the pan, threw a sheepskin over it and tried it for height and was very pleased.  Now I know this is something to pursue and I am going to look into rebuilding the seat from the pan up or maybe even making a new pan.  I will report how this turns out when I get to it. 

Boots

My last idea was to make my legs longer.  I do have a very nice set of boots with a 2″ heel that I really like but I wanted something that made me taller but had a better platform to land on, so I took my old boots to the shoemaker and had him make the soles to my specs.  They would work great except on the Valkyrie.  There is not a lot of room, as it is, to get your foot under the shifter and with this big thick boot it is almost impossible.  I may try to invent something to attach to the boot to help with this but thats on the back burner for now.  I am considering something called a Kick Shift from Rattlebars to make shifting gears easier for me.  What I really liked was the Kliktronic Push Button Gear Shift.

Other Resources to Explore

I was excited to see some new technology that may help me a great deal.  It is a system where little wheels come out when you apply your brake and slow to a stop that prevent the bike from tipping over.  They come up and almost out of sight once you start moving so that the handling while moving would remain original.  They are not available for my model yet but I am watching eagerly to see if this might be my solution.  Again, I will be reporting my findings here as it becomes available. It is called LegUp Landin Gear.  I contacted them by email because they do make this product for the Goldwing and I think the Valkyrie might have the same frame dimensions so it might be possible.  

Handlebars

The handlebars were very easy to adjust and I did manage to loosen the bolts and lower the bars to make it a bit more comfortable but I will look for some curved risers that will bring the bars closer to me and I think that solution will be satisfactory and I won’t have to go to after-market bars.

I have been riding my first bike, a 650 Vstar since I bought it new in 2006. In April I bought my dream bike, a Honda Valkyrie. It is too big for me and I have been doing mods to make it fit me better. If you look under Customizing you can find articles on what I am doing to help fit the bike better.

 The bike is so much different then my 650. It is longer, taller,  heavier and much more powerful.

My leg position is a lot different on the Valkyrie. The foot pegs are right under my knee, not the forward position I am used to on the Yamaha. The handlebars are farther away and the clutch lever is much harder to squeeze. I know how to ride the 650 and I am quite comfortable and confident in any situation that comes up on it. So if I had progressed from 0-10 on the small bike, when I get on the bigger bike I drop instantly back to a 3 or 4. All the old familiar fears come back when I take the big one out. My heart jumps out of my chest frequently. The advantage is that I know how to ride a motorcycle, I just have to learn how to ride THIS motorcycle. Another advantage is that I really WANT to. I love this bike, but I also love my body to remain unharmed, so I have to be realistic and take it slow as I can.

What happened on Sunday was a rookie mistake and I know better. But my nervousness and lack of confidence on the bigger bike made me forget the rule. I missed the highway turn off so I had to turn around. I did not feel confident making a U turn because of the small highway I was on, my lack of skill on the new bike and the amount of traffic. So I made a left turn onto a gravel side road and would attempt the low speed turn there and go back up onto the highway. I made the turn and as I entered the gravel part and started the turn I was facing down a bit. I looked down, mistake one, was using my front brake, mistake two, and was not giving power to the rear wheel, mistake three. OF COURSE I WENT DOWN!! Sheesh. 

What I Did Right

Now I want to mention what I did right so I can at least come out of this with something. I attempted the turn in a place where I was not going to get hit by any cars or cause any problems. I was wearing full protective gear. I had rear crash bars installed to ensure that if I did go down I would not get pinned under the bike. I didn't panic, actually I didn't have time to panic but still. 

I got up dusted myself off, made some pain faces, checked myself and my bike and got back on and rode to the rally. I didn't have to pick the bike up myself, it was back on the stand thanks to my husband being behind me.

Oh one more mistake I should mention. I should have maybe milked the situation for a little more sympathy. 

And something kind of cool happened as a result. I kind of feel like I got it out of the way and I actually feel better and more confident and relaxed now.  I dropped the big bike and lived to tell about it and rode home the same day.  Life is good. 

Take care everyone and ride safe.

Sienna

I know there are times I want to just jump on my bike and go, but I am an “all the gear, all the time” kind of rider.

There is a minimum amount of safety equipment that makes me comfortable; and a whole lot of extras depending on the length of my trip that day.

                                                   Full Face Helmet   This helmet is going to provide you the most protection. It guards your mouth and front of your chin as well as your head. The first few I tried made me feel that my peripheral vision was compromised so I looked for one that was cut deeper into the helmet and did not give me that feeling of wearing blinkers. It also felt very heavy to me at first but I got used to that element very quickly and it was not a problem.  

 Modular Helmet  This will be my next purchase for a few reasons. As you can see in the photo, it looks like a full face when its closed, but the piece that goes across your chin flips up allowing you to eat or drink or most important to me, I can put it on after I have my sunglasses in place. This particular model also has a drop down sun visor on the inside that I find handy. If I wear my contact lenses this feature is great because I can just flip that visor down to keep the sun out of my eyes or lift it up when the light is low and I don’t have to wear sunglasses at all. 

  Three Quarter Helmet    

Skull Cap

How to Choose the Best Helmet for You

There is a lot more to think about in terms of expense then the motorcycle and insurance. I have a budget like most people but I try not to scrimp (is that a word?) and save on safety equipment. Of course I look for sales and discounts wherever possible, but I won’t buy inferior products. Helmets have a minimum safety standard in order to be legally sold in Canada and to my understanding this applies in most countries. It is not within the scope of this article to go into detail about the various standards and testing that goes into the safety standard ratings but if you are interested, there are some helpful links at the end of this article that you may find of interest. If you buy your brand name helmet from a reputable dealer and the helmet displays safety approval stickers then you can be reasonably confident you are purchasing a piece of equipment that adheres to current government regulations for safety.

Do not buy a used helmet for a few reasons. First of all…ewwww, it’s a personal item and I just feel better with something new. Most important however is that once a helmet is dropped, even on the floor in the store, it is considered unsafe. They also expire as materials can degrade over time and become less safe. The helmet can be dropped and not show any external damage so take that into consideration.

Next you must decide what type of helmet will suit you best. Don’t rush finding the right one, you will be wearing it a lot and if you are comfortable then you will enjoy the ride and that’s why we do this after all. As I outlined above, each helmet style has its advantages and disadvantages, so try to find the one most comfortable with the best safety features. This is so very personal I will not recommend one way or the other. All I can tell you is that I will feel best with the full face modular. It also makes the people that care about me feel better about me riding and that is a consideration. If you ride with the attitude of safety in your equipment and riding habits, it does tend to put the nervous bunch at ease somewhat.

The Fit

So now that you have tried some on and have a pretty good idea of the style you want and are assured they are safety rated you will find the hardest part (at least for me) is the fit. There is more to it then you might think.

It would be so much easier if we all had the same shaped head then we would just find the right size.. but we don’t. Not only do we have different sized heads, they also come in a lot of different shapes. Are you a Stewie a Charlie Brown, Conehead or Sponge Bob? There are egg shaped heads, narrow heads, round heads etc. Different manufacturers make different shaped helmets and you have to look at each one to find what works for you. (refer to the link at the bottom for more information) The inner padding might adjust slightly to your head but usually not enough to make the helmet comfortable for that reason alone. Riding for an hour with the helmet pushing relentlessly on one portion of your skull can drive you crazy, make you lose concentration and ..of course that’s exactly what you don’t want on a bike. Try on many helmets of different brands and models within the brand. When the helmet is on your head and properly fastened it should move with you and not rub when you move your head from side to side or up and down. It also should not be so tight you have a headache within minutes of pounding it down on your skull. I hold the chin straps and spread the helmet as I position it over my head to make it a bit easier. Walk around the store for at least a half hour. I know you look a bit silly but anyone that rides will understand. Try talking and opening and closing your mouth and clenching your teeth and see how it feels. Make sure the chin strap is wide enough and padded enough to fit comfortably. I know some people like the quick connectors but I have caught the skin on my neck a few times and I prefer the double ring type fasteners. Also the plastic and springs in the fast connect type can break and if you don't have a replacement handy, the helmet is pretty much useless.

Most helmets are vented so check and see what type of vents there are and how easy they are to open and close while you are wearing the helmet and with a gloved hand. Also check that the visor can be easily flipped up and down with gloves on. Make sure your peripheral vision is acceptable. Some full face helmets made me feel like I had lost most of my peripheral vision and that makes me uncomfortable. I looked until I found one that was designed in such away that the visor wrapped around more and gave me much better vision to the sides.

The shop where I bought my helmet told me I could take it home and wear it as long as I didn’t use it on the bike so I could have a better idea of fit. And I felt better sitting in my house with it on then walking around the store. Turns out I kept both so far and didn’t need to return them so ask your store if this is an option.

My helmet also has a removable liner that can be washed…yayyyy. Nice feature.

If you are in a bike shop go and sit on a bike similar to your own and see how it feels. Sport bikes have a different rider position for instance then a cruiser and so the depth of the visor might make a difference to you. Of course you can’t test wind and noise factors without riding and most places won’t accept a return that has been in the wind. So make some notes, take your time and find something you like. It was suggested to me that a light color is more noticeable especially at night and therefore safer. Again that is personal preference. I have a reflective stripe on the bottom of my black helmet that shows black and doesn’t interfere with the look and that is adequate for me for now.

So go shopping already and get out on the road. J Good luck.

________________________________________________________________

For more information try the following links:

• NHTSA National Highway Traffic Safety Administration page on helmet compliance testing.

• Snell Memorial Foundation is a not-for-profit organization that, for over fifty years has been dedicated to research, education, testing and development of helmet safety standards. Since its founding in 1957, Snell has been a leader in helmet safety in the United States and around the world.
• SHARP (Safety Helmet Assessment and Rating Program)
• webBikeworld